Korea Bucket List: Seoraksan National Park

Sitting high on my Korea Bucket List for the past three years has been Seoraksan National Park. I don't have a single good reason for why it took me so long to make it out there, but I'm definitely kicking myself for putting if off for so long. A couple weekends ago, Corey and I took a trip with Adventure Korea out to this famous park to soak up the cooling fall weather and do some hiking. 

Seoraksan National Park is located in northeastern Korea, about three to four hours driving distance from Seoul. The park itself is massive -- 398.5 km² (over 98,000 acres!), with so many hikes and trekking courses to potentially follow. The weekend we spent in the park definitely wasn't enough, and I really wish I'd made more trips to the park during my time in Korea. (So let that be a lesson to you, readers! Don't follow my terrible example!) 

The day we arrived, we hiked the popular Ulsanbawi course, which is probably one of the tougher hikes I've done in Korea. While being far from being the tallest peak in the park (that would be Daecheongbang, standing at 1,708 meters), Ulsanbawi is known for its unrelenting stairs and the stunning view from the top. The jagged rocks along the ridge of nearby peaks has made the view from Ulsanbawi become one of the iconic photo spots of Seoraksan National Park. Looking forward to this, we steeled ourselves for the stairs. 

However, as we set off for Ulsanbawi, we looked doubtfully up at the clouds that obscured the mountain peaks. Not only was it threatening rain, but if we did make it to the top, it looked like we wouldn't be able to see a damn thing. The rain held off during the hike, and when we got to the top, this was our surreal view: 

So, no rocks spiking along the tops of mountains, and instead, blue-grey nothingness. While I would advise you to keep an eye on the weather, hiking into a cloud and being surrounded by sound-muffling fog was a new level of bizarre, but also something I'm happy to have gotten to see. 

The hike itself isn't very long -- we went all the way up, with numerous rest breaks along the way, took photos, enjoyed our accomplishment, and made it all the way back down in under four hours. The stairs are punishing, especially the steep stretches that are literally affixed to the rock face, but while blogs online will say this hike is a rough one, it isn't impossible, and I highly recommend doing it. 

Feeling rather jelly-legged after the Ulsanbawi hike, we opted for leisurely trekking on our second day, following the Yongso Falls course through Jujeon valley. This route took us along a small river that snaked through the valley, showing off the impressive mountains above us. The path to the waterfall was under construction, so we weren't able to see it, but we still had fun climbing on the rocks in the river and taking photos of the scenery. Note the dazzlingly blue sky that would've been awesome for the Ulsanbawi hike... -_-

Along this course, we also stopped at some of the natural springs to drink the Osaek mineral water. Osaek means five flavors, and drinking the mineral water is said to be good for digestion and upset stomachs. There are a couple spots at the start of the course where the mineral water can be scooped from holes inside of the rocky riverbank. The water had an interesting taste -- very metallic and bitter. The area surrounding the valley also has numerous spas where you can soak in the mineral water to relax aching muscles.

Seoraksan National Park was stunning, and it's definitely on my list of spots to someday revisit.

For more information about the park, visit its official website. If you're interested in doing a tour with Adventure Korea, check their schedule here.

Getting Lost in the Ihwa Mural Village

UPDATE: The mural village has been permanently closed, due to tourist traffic disrupting the community. I'll leave this entry up, as it's full of photos and the history of the neighborhood, but its murals have been painted over. :( 

After nearly three years in Korea, I feel like I've managed to see a lot of stuff. Loads of the touristy spots, tons of festivals, and even a fair amount of the quirkier activities. Overall, I feel pretty accomplished. 

I now have about three months left in Korea and... well, the "Korea To-Do" note on my phone is absurdly and intimidatingly lengthy... [Seriously, what you see on my Bucket List is just a handful of the mess that is the disorganized list of things I've jotted down in my phone...]

I've been quite proactive lately, checking out new places weekly. Recently, I was able to cross a slightly-less-well-known spot off of the list in my phone by visiting the Ihwa Mural Village. 

My friends and I had decided to head to the Ihwa Mural Village after reading about it online. Murals scattered on the walls of houses in a neighborhood? Sounds awesome. That was basically all we knew as we set out for our sightseeing. Since then, while researching the area for this blog, I've learned quite a bit about its history, and it's pretty cool.

As Seoul has grown over the years, certain neighborhoods have been forgotten in the rapid development. The ones situated on the sides of mountains remained somewhat untouched for a long time due to their undesirable location and poorer demographic. They're called dal dongnae, or moon villages, since being on a mountain puts them closer to the moon. While many have been demolished in recent years in favor of fancy, modern architecture, a few have survived. 

The neighborhood of Ihwa-dong is one of these moon villages, situated on Naksan ("san" meaning mountain), and it houses the murals we went to see. Stepping foot into this area is like a time warp. Steep hills, narrow alleys, and surprising silence. There are no cars or delivery bikes zooming along, and the area is devoid of neon signs, making it feel like you aren't even in Seoul anymore, much less the 21st century. While I do think that the typical row after row of high-rise apartment buildings looks cool (and also makes me think of this), these smaller, old-fashioned homes all stacked right next to each other are far more picturesque and charming. 

The beautification of Ihwa-dong is similar to the project undertaken in 2010 to save Hongje-dong, or the "Ant Village," as well as other areas in Korea. Over sixty murals fill Ihwa-dong, painted as part of the "ART in the City 2006" campaign by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism as a way to rejuvenate the image of these smaller, older neighborhoods. To quote the Seoul Metropolitan Government's website about Ihwa-dong, the idea behind this project was to "improve living conditions through practical and financial help and support, as well as giving the area an artistic and cultural makeover." 

Artists were hired, murals were mapped out, and now it's a tourist destination. Some of the houses have even been converted into restaurants and cafes, seizing the opportunity for revenue from all the wandering tourists. We spotted a lot of other tourists and photographers as we walked around, and we even stumbled (quite literally) onto the set of what looked like a new drama... No clue which drama, but we stopped to watch as one of the actors had a very pensive moment at someone's rooftop door, struggling internally over whether or not he should knock. 

While we wandered, we got distracted by finding part of the old Seoul City Wall, so mural-hunting was abandoned for the day as we decided to hike up Naksan instead to catch a view of the city at sunset. But! I'm planning to head back to Ihwa-dong soon so I can get lost in its tiny alleys as I search for the murals that I missed. 

Words of advice:

• Much like the Bukchon Hanok Village, this is a real neighborhood, so be respectful of the residents. Luckily, the majority of the murals are on walls that line the common areas, so you won't feel like a creep/intruder when you take pictures. 
• Lots and lots of stairs and some areas have uneven pavement (it's on a mountain, after all), so keep that in mind when choosing your footwear for the day! 
• While it's called "Ihwa Mural Village," don't confuse it with the area near Ewha Women's University! Very different areas, so follow the directions below so you can get their easily.
• While you're there, check out the Daehangno area that surrounds Hyehwa station -- it seemed like a really hip and interesting area, and one that I definitely want to revisit. 

Directions:

• Hyehwa Station, Seoul Metro Line 4, Exit 2.
• Go straight for 200m, then turn left onto the street called Dongsung-gil.  
• Walk straight until you get to the Lock Museum.  
• After about 50 meters, turn right onto the street called Naksan Gongson-gil and walk towards Naksan Park.  
• Keep an eye out for signs -- there will be some for Naksan Park, including maps that show you the different paths to take around Ihwa-dong. 

Seodaemun Prison

Always one for exploring museums and learning about history, I finally checked out a spot I'd really been interested in visiting: Seodaemun Prison History Hall. During my time in Korea, I've been very interested in any opportunity to learn more about the country's past, and friends have told me this museum was not to be missed. Now that spring has sprung, it seemed like the prime time to walk around the prison's grounds in Seoul and take in the history of the place. 

The first building you'll come to upon entering -- start here! Lots of basic information of the prison's history is in this building, which will help you understand everything else.

To give a brief history lesson to contextualize the photos I took, Seodaemun Prison was opened in 1908 under the name Gyeongseong Gamok. As you may know from your history lessons, Japan invaded Korea, and at this point in time, Korea was considered a protectorate of Japan. 1910 marked the official annexation of Korea by Japan, an occupation that lasted until the end of the World War II in 1945.   

Original layout and size of the prison.

Seodaemun, being operated by the Japanese, was a prison reserved primarily for Korean independence and freedom fighters. At the time the prison was built, it was the largest in Korea, with cells to house 500 people. However, over the course of Japan's occupation and the resistance movements by Korean activists, the number of people interned reached more than 3,000 around the time of the March 1st Independence Movement in 1919.   

One of the buildings, looking foreboding.

After Korea's liberation in 1945, the prison remained in use until 1987. Then, in 1998, Seodaemun Prison History Hall was opened to commemorate dark history of the prison and its prisoners. 7 of the 15 buildings have been restored and all contain information for visitors about their historical significance.   

It was fascinating, while also saddening, to learn about life in the prison. We were able to see not only an average cell but also look into the cells for solitary confinement. The basement of the main building was the area designated for interrogation and torture, so scenes depicting these have been recreated for visitors.   

Solitary confinement cells.

Mannequin in one of the cells, showing how inmates would tap on the cell walls to communicate with each other.

Photos of prisoners line the walls of a room in the main history building.

Box torture: prisoners were put into the box, which has spikes sticking into the inside, and then the guards would shake the box around.

A mannequin Japanese guard oversees the cell block.

As the prison's history is irrevocably tied to Japan's presence in Korea, much of the museum focused on the history of the two countries during the prison's operation. Exhibits detail the struggle Korea faced during the time of its occupation, detailing the brave acts of the men and women who dared to stand up for Korea's freedom and independence.

Overall, it was a very interesting, albeit somber, experience, and definitely one of the better museums I've seen while in Korea. The organization was tasteful and informative, and we left with a much greater understanding of Korea's history in the first half of the twentieth century. I highly recommend spending an afternoon exploring the prison and soaking up the history while you're in Korea!

Directions and information: 

• Dongnimmun Station, Seoul Metro Line 3, Exit 5. 
• Admission cost: 3,000 won. 
• Hours: March-October 9:30am-6pm, November-February 9:30am-5pm.
• Closed on Mondays, national holidays.
• Official website: Seodaemun Prison
• Trazy website with more information

My Favorite Korean Palace: Gyeongbokgung

The weather is finally getting warmer and in anticipation of the prime sightseeing and out-of-doors season, I've been revisiting pictures from my past springs and summers in Korea. I can't wait to get out and take full advantage of my upcoming weekends -- there are so many festivals coming up! One of my favorite spots that I'm looking forward to revisiting this springtime is the grandest of the five palaces in Seoul: Gyeongbokgung.

So here's a glimpse into this palace's grounds through photos I've taken over the past couple of years...

The Joseon Dynasty, which began in 1392 and lasted nearly five centuries, is responsible for the construction of the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul: Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, Changgeyonggung, Gyeonghuigung, and of course, Gyeongbokgung. It's on my Korea Bucket List to visit each of these palaces, but I've only seen two of the five so far because something keeps pulling me back to Gyeongbokgung whenever I get the chance. 

Gyeongbokgung was first built in 1395 and served as the main palace for the Joseon Dynasty. Its time as the king's primary residence was disrupted, however, by its destruction in the 1590s due to Japanese invasion and war. Beginning in 1868, the palace was restored and expanded, only to take serious hits in the first half of the 20th Century under Japan's occupation.

Since 1990, the Korean Government has been working on restoring the palace to its former grandeur, with it being approximately half completed at this point.

So why do I love this palace so much? Well, basically, because it's just gorgeous. The palace grounds are absolutely massive, so with each trip, I find an area I hadn't fully explored the time before. The whole place is just outrageously photogenic and wandering around aimlessly is relaxing and peaceful.

If you like museums, also be sure to check out the National Palace Museum of Korea, which is located right outside the palace walls, and the National Folk Museum of Korea, which is within the palace grounds. (Definitely something to keep in mind if you're visiting the palace during the summer heat!)

Something else that I love about the palace are the cultural programs and events that it hosts. A couple years ago, some friends and I went to Gyeongbokgung during the Chuseok holiday because we had read about the variety of performances and activities that had been designed for the holiday weekend. We saw traditional dancing, did some arts and crafts, and ate good food. If you're ever in need of somewhere to go for a holiday weekend in Korea, look into what the palaces are hosting!

Directions and information:

• Subway: Gyeongbokgung Station, Seoul Metro Line 3, Exit 5. 
• Admission cost: 3,000 won.
• Hours: Opens at 9am year-round; closes at 5pm November-February, 6pm March-May/September-October, and 6:30pm June-August. 
• Closed: Tuesdays.
• Gyeongbokgung Official website.
• For more information about the palace, here's an interactive map of the palace grounds from the Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea and the informational website from the Korea Tourism Organization.

View from the Top: Seoul's 63 Building

There are quite a few spots around Seoul that offer a breathtaking view of the sprawling city. As a bad knee prevents me from being an avid hiker, I've yet to get a look at the city from the top of one of its numerous mountain peaks. Instead, I opted to check out the famous 63 Building, which sits right on the Han River and gives a chance at a full 360 panorama of Seoul. (And it has an elevator that takes you to the top, therefore saving my knee the effort.) 

Let me just say: Seoul is one good lookin' city. 

If you've been anywhere near the Han River in Seoul, you've probably seen the 63 Building -- it's that really, really tall one that's all shiny and gold. It has 63 floors, as you might've guessed, and measures a whopping 264 meters. You can technically only go as high as the 60th floor, which was a slight bummer, but really, what's another three floors when you're already that high up?

Visiting the 63 Building was a pitstop on the way home from other errands in Seoul -- we really only wanted to check out the view. That being said, the building offers quite a lot of other activities, from restaurants to a "sea world" to a wax museum. Due to time constraints and a general unwillingness to spend money on the other attractions (which are semi-pricey), we went straight to the top of the building. 

Identical blocks of high-rise apartments.

When you go to the 63 Building, you'll have to buy tickets on the ground floor before you can even get on an elevator for the observation floor. (Don't worry about getting lost -- it's a bit of a maze, but there are tons of employees stationed all over to point you in the right direction.) The observation floor is also technically an art gallery, known as 63 SkyArt, which adds a little extra bang for your buck. We were slightly offput that the fee for the art gallery/observation deck was ₩11,000 (~$10 USD), but figured it could be worse. Getting up to, into, and down from Namsan Tower, for example, is more expensive (unless you hike). 

The buildings just never end.

While I wasn't able to get any pictures because it was moving so fast, the elevator that took us up to the 60th floor had glass walls! We were able to see the Han and the buildings of Seoul shrink right in front of us as our ears popped and we experienced mild vertigo. (Going down was even more disorienting, actually.) 

Speaking of disorienting, this is the "Thrill Deck" corner of the observation floor -- but honestly, not terribly thrilling as the glass panels were mirrored back at me instead of being see-through down to the ground. I look so thrilled, right?

The art gallery had some decent pieces on display, so I did take a little time to look at the art on the wall. Really, though, I was too preoccupied with getting some shots of Seoul to give the art the attention it deserved. 

We were lucky to visit on such a clear day. Definitely something to keep in mind in case you want to visit the 63 Building. Keep an eye on the pollution levels.

After wandering all the way around and staring out the windows for a while, we got bored and decided to leave. There is a cafe and small gift shop, but both were crowded with other tourists. As we left, we walked around the outside of the building so we could get some good shots of it against the clear blue sky.

There is it, ladies and gents. Tall, shiny, and gold(ish). 

An art installation of some metal trees outside the building, making a neat contrast of shapes and textures.

Directions:

• We got off the subway at Daebang Station, took exit 6, and hopped on the #62 city bus. (Our bus driver even made sure we got off at the right stop, even though it clearly announced the 63 Building stop over the speakers.) 
• The 63 Building is also within walking distance of several subway stations that are along the Han River, so as we were leaving, we chose to just walk back to Yeoinaru Station.
• Also, for more information and directions, Korea Tourism Organization's site for the 63 Building has comprehensive information about how to get there.

Overall, it was neat. Worth the ₩11,000? Meh. The view was definitely gorgeous, but I have to roll my eyes at all the gimmicks of the building. That, and I wish the ticket price for getting to the 60th floor was a little cheaper. 

However, I will say that I was definitely impressed with the panorama of Seoul, and as far as observation decks go, this one presents an awfully pretty view. If you don't mind the ticket price, I would recommend taking a trip up to the 60th floor. Just look at those pictures -- how would you not want to see that?