Indoor Activities to Survive Summertime in Korea

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea! The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots for sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. 

While Korea's hottest days are still a month or so away, we also have the rainy season, which technically has already begun. So what to do on those weekends when you want to go explore and be social, but between the rain and/or the heat, you don't want to spend time outside? Well, check out this handy list of the top air-conditioned activities to check out in Seoul this summer! 

Last summer, I wrote a basic how-to for beating the heat during a Korean summer. This summer, I'm thinking of finding more indoor activities. When it comes to staying indoors as much as possible, I automatically think of museums. Luckily, Seoul has quite an array of museums to offer to those of us who are looking to enjoy the things Korea has to offer, but also would prefer to limit our time under the hot summer sun. 

Here are the activities I'm planning to check off my list over the coming weekends: 

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

I recently revisited this awesome building and allowed myself to get completely lost wandering around inside. Some shopping was done in its quirky, creative stores and delicious food was eaten at one of the Western-style restaurants in the food court. Even better, the DDP has various exhibits running throughout the summer that are worth checking out. 

We wandered through the Weta Workshop Fantasy Exhibition and had a good time. Weta is well-known for being the special effects/makeup/costumers/etc. for The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings. The exhibit features much more than pieces of Middle Earth -- it has sculptures and dioramas and conceptual artwork for many of their other fantastical projects.

For more information, check out the DDP's official website and Trazy's DDP page.

Art museums

I've seen some really great art exhibits come to Korea in the past, so I typically keep my eye on what's happening in the museums at all times. Luckily, this summer looks to be a good one for art lovers. 

Seoul Arts Center has two exhibits that just recently started -- The Great Artists: Renoir to Damien Hirst, and Edvard Munch and the Modern Soul. I'll definitely be visiting both of these soon and probably writing a full review. The exhibits I've caught at the SAC in the past have been excellent, so I'm looking forward to these too. 

There is also the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art that's right next to Gyeongbokgung in Seoul. Since the last time I was there, the exhibits have changed over, which means I'll be planning a trip there sometime soon as well. 

The War Memorial of Korea

The best part of this museum is that it's totally free. Who can argue with wandering around a huge museum, enjoying the nice air conditioning, and being able to save the money that would typically be spent on admission fees? 

This museum is really quite well-organized and presented. Informative, huge, and really quite cool. Check out some previous Aclipse blogger write-ups of the museum here and here. And, should you feel like venturing outside, a sizeable portion of the museum is on the grounds in the form of wartime vehicles. You can even climb inside some of them to look around, so I would recommend saving this museum for a hot day rather than a rainy day.  

The War Memorial's official website and Trazy's info page have everything you'll need to plan your visit.

Trick Eye Museum

If art and history aren't quite your thing and you're looking for something a little more whimsical, definitely check out one of the many trick eye museums around Seoul (and Korea!). An optical illusion technique makes the paintings on the walls three-dimensional, and the best part is they're designed so that you can jump into the middle of them! Expect countless photo ops and make sure your phone's batteries are charged up.

We went to the Trick Eye Museum in Hongdae, which actually has the freezing cold Ice Museum -- and in the summertime, this might be just what you need. If you're in other parts of Seoul, check out the locations of the Alive Museum, which includes the same kind of illusions. 

More information for the Hongdae location: KTO site and Trazy site (and a coupon here!), including the Ice Museum, and for the Alive Museum here, here, orrrr here.

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Any museums or exhibits to add to this list? I'm sure there's so much more to do on the weekends that would otherwise be lost to rain or gross humidity. Leave a comment below with your recommendations! 

Monthly Photo Recap: May 2014, aka Emma's Visit

SO LATE with this recap. However, I was computerless for a couple weeks, so that seriously bungled my blogging aspirations. Also I'm lazy.

But! My computer is back and good as new, so it's time to play catch up.

May was a fun month, largely because Emma was visiting for two weeks of it. Having a visitor is always a nice distraction from everything else. And while it was bittersweet (because saying goodbye was basically a knife to the heart), it was really, really awesome to get to show her Korea and have some busy weekends of running around and sightseeing.

So, without apology, here's photos from May that are absolutely 90% related to Emma's visit.

Beginning with a picture of the cat! Not Emma.

We took an airport arrival picture, but we both look rough -- her because she'd just stepped off a plane and me because I was an emotional wreck that had been crying in anticipation of her arrival. So here was our first good seester picture of her trip. 

Rainy day on Wolmido, with cool clouds.

Lotteria, kind of like Korea's McDonald's, even tried to copy McD's little characters by making these creepy-ass ones. Emma wasn't into it.  

Exploring Bukchon Hanok Village! 

I just love Bukchon so much. 

We were getting pretty loopy by the end of the night, wandering around Insadong buying as many ice creams as we wanted. 

The beginning of lots and lots of purikura pictures. I could do an entire recap just of these pictures. 

This is known as our Disney Channel Original Movie movie poster. 

Nami Island! We had a good time wandering around.

It was a particularly beautiful day on Nami, too. 

While in the area of Nami, we also stopped by Petite France, unable to resist since Emma had just completed her teaching contract in France. It was... weird. And underwhelming. And full of truly terrifying statues and marionette dolls. Full blog coming soon. 

Teacher's Day passed sometime in the middle of the month, and some really sweet notes and presents were passed my way from some very thoughtful students. 

Sister funday! Playing in a mirror art installation in a subway station. 

Aaaaand more purikura. Can't stop, won't stop.

Emma in Hongdae, looking ~so cool~ in front of this mural. She a day or so after this was taken, which was a tearful goodbye at the airport. I wish she could've stayed longer, and I wish I'd had more time off to explore Korea with her. 

Another cat picture, for good measure.

The month ended with the end of a term at work, which meant saying goodbye to a couple coworkers that have meant so much to me during my entire time in Korea. It isn't the same without them, though I know they're having a wonderful time back home. We took this staff picture to commemorate the momentous farewell. 

Korea money questions? Here are some answers.

As a blogger, I've received a substantial number of emails about Korea over the past two years. The common theme among the questions I get asked can easily be guessed: money. Understandably so, of course, as money is an important part of taking a job in a foreign country. So, it is my hope that the information I have gathered from the experiences of a variety of expats in Korea (myself, my friends, and fellow bloggers) will help answer your burning money questions...

Before I get started, here's a general disclaimer: the following information does not, of course, account for every situation in Korea. This info should be used to give you a general idea of what to expect, but remember to calculate for some differences depending on area, salary, etc. Living in Gangnam is always going to cost more than living in Suwon, just as living in Pyeongtaek will be different from living in Incheon.

That being said, let's get down to the questions...

1. Did your school help you set up a bank account? 

This is a universal yes from everyone I've asked. You'll likely have to wait until your Alien Registration Card (ARC) has been processed by immigration, but there are ways around that in case immigration is moving at a slower-than-usual pace. My ARC, for example, took a little under two weeks, so when my first payday rolled around, my Assistant Branch Manager took me to the bank and got an account all set up for me!

Don't stress about this one -- someone will be there to help you out.

(Note: This is the case as a teacher with Chungdahm, so I can't speak to the level of assistance you'd receive at a different school. Though, honestly, I'm sure there will be people to help you because if not... that's just damn ridiculous.)

2. On average, how much do rent and utilities cost? 

Rent is the biggest variable since it depends on location and the type of apartment you're given. From the people I've asked -- located in Seoul, Incheon, Pyeongtaek, Daegu, and Busan -- you can expect your rent to be around or under $500. In smaller cities, you might be looking at something closer to $300, whereas in bigger cities, definitely closer to $500 or even higher. In Incheon, I pay 440,000 won per month for my single room, loft apartment. Having the loft definitely makes it more expensive than a tiny studio apartment, but all in all, it's still a good deal.

Utilities depends on the weather of your area (obviously) and also how well you manage it. In months with nice weather, your bills might be miniscule. In the middle of the summer heat, they might be over 200,000 won (roughly $200). 

3. How expensive is it to get around via subway or bus? 

Oh man, you're going to love this. It is so cheap. I can get from Incheon to anywhere in the greater Seoul area for under 2,000 won. The base fare is around a buck, and depending on how far you go, they might tack on a little bit more (but no more than another 1,000 won) when you get off.

Take advantage of the public transportation -- it's cheap and very convenient. 

4. How much do you spend on food in an average week? 

Yesterday, I stopped by the neighborhood supermarket, Lotte, for some basics. Ground pork, spinach, milk, cream cheese, sprouts, bread, and eggs. The total? Around 20,000 won. Some things are pricey here, like cheese and fruit, while others are more in line with our Western standards.

When it comes to food, it depends on how you approach your meals. It's easy to grab something quick from Paris Baguette or another cafe on your way into work. A salad or a sandwich will run around 5,000 won. Or, you can stop by a gimbap house and pick up a gimbap roll (around 3,000 won) or some bibimbap (around 5,000 won).

Before coming to Korea, I heard a lot of people tell me it's cheaper to eat out than in, and honestly, it's a 50-50 split. I manage to make cooking at home inexpensive because I've learned to cater my menus to what I can get a good deal on. Grabbing food in a restaurant is also very inexpensive though, especially if you stick to Korean food. There have been many a night when we've stuffed ourselves with Korean BBQ and the total is under 10,000 won a person!

My advice: brew coffee at home, pack lunches for work, and eat dinner at Korean restaurants. When I was on a money saving mission to afford a lengthy vacation back home, I was comfortably living on $100 a week. I've even made it by on $10 a day before! 

5. What can I expect for a cellphone plan? 

Cellphone plans here vary quite a bit. Some are as cheap as 30,000 won a month -- typically those are little flip or slider phones. Others, like mine, are 80,000 won a month. The way it will work if you want to get a smartphone, which is what I have, is you will be paying off the cost of the phone a little bit each month. That's why my plan is so expensive. I upgraded to an iPhone 5S recently, so I'm paying 80,000 won a month. That covers unlimited calls and texts, a generous data plan, and part of the cost of the iPhone. That's just one example, but since the 5S is a popular phone right now, I think it's a good indicator of what you can expect.

6. How much money are you able to send home each month? 

Saving money and sending it home is probably a priority for most of us. After all, Korea is one of the best paying countries for ESL teachers.

To answer this question, I'll just outline my own financial situation: In Korea, I have to pay rent, utility bills, my cellphone, and my health insurance. Back home, I have around $800+ in bills to pay -- student loans, car payments, credit card payments, etc. All that considered, I am able to send a minimum of $1000 home each month. That leaves me with more than enough money to cover expenses in Korea, eat out in restaurants with my friends most nights, and do more shopping than I need to at the mall down the street. I may not be saving a ton of money due to focusing on paying down debt and enjoying my life in Korea, but I'm still living very, very comfortably.

At a minimum, you should be able to send home $1000 each month, either to pay bills or to put straight into your savings. Not bad, amirite?

When it comes to sending money home, it's really simple and quick. The first time you do the transfer, you'll need the assistance of a teller (bring your passport AND Alien Registration Card!), but after that, you can do it from an ATM! 

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Hopefully those answers are helpful! The money situation in Korea, while stressful while you're in the process of moving out here, is really quite simple and convenient.

If you have any other questions or any experiences to add to this entry, leave a comment below! 

A Guide to Grocery Shopping in Korea

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea! The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. 

As I was preparing to move to Korea, I kept reading online that it was actually cheaper to eat at restaurants than it was to eat at home. This can definitely be true, but I still wanted to cook at home. It took me a while to fully suss out all of my grocery options without getting discouraged -- veggies and (especially) fruits can be significantly pricier here, as are things like ground beef. But, if you know how and where to shop, it's easy to find good deals and not break the bank while trying to cook at home.

I'm going to break this down into different categories of grocery shopping to give a clear overview of what to expect and what is at your disposal.

1. Big chain supermarkets: Lotte, HomePlus, and E-Mart

You will likely have one of these huge stores near your apartment and/or school. Typically open until midnight, they're great for post-work grocery shopping and carry everything from food to clothes to literally anything else you might need.

I have all three of the big chains within walking distance of my apartment, and I would say that HomePlus is my favorite. They carry a better variety of products, including quite a lot of imported brands, and it just seems to be well-organized overall.

Shopping tip: Going late in the evening means you might be able to pick up produce and meat that's been marked down. Definitely a good way to save some money.

2. Small, neighborhood grocers

I highly recommend frequenting your local grocery stores. Prices can be quite a bit lower on things like fresh produce and you can often get good deals on meat. The butcher who works at the grocery store around the corner from my apartment always gives us way more meat than we actually need, which really helps drive home the bargain and keeps us going back for more. 

In my neighborhood, the large chain supermarkets are actually closed every other Sunday to give these smaller stores a business boost.

3. Traditional markets

Are you a fan of farmers markets? Then definitely keep an eye out for traditional markets. Some of these can be found in large open-air buildings, others are just set up along a particular street. You'll find everything you'd possibly want here, from fish to produce to spices. Don't be afraid to haggle, either -- you might be able to knock the price down a little. 

4. Convenience stores

You may laugh at the idea of shopping in these, but convenience stores are a viable option for those times when you just need to run out and grab milk or eggs. If you're lucky, you might even be near a little mart that carries fruits, veggies, and other simple kitchen ingredients. Convenience stores are ubiquitous in this country, so there will definitely be one near you. 

5. Costco

This is possibly the priciest option for grocery shopping on the list, simply because Costco carries a lot of imported goods and they sell in bulk. I usually go with a group of friends and we figure out how to split it all up to save money. I wrote a much more detailed post about Costco last year, which you can read here. 

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Any other tips for grocery shopping in Korea? Leave a comment below! 

Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park

Next to Dongdaemun Gate is an area of Seoul famous for its countless markets. From clothing to textiles to craft supplies -- it has literally everything you might ever want. Ever. Now, in the middle of these more traditional markets and hip shopping malls, a structure that looks like something out of a futuristic landscape has been added to this area's massive to-do list. This spaceship-like building is the new Dongdaemun Design Plaza, and it's really, really cool.

Spaceship? Or building?!

The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, or DDP, opened its doors on March 21st of this year, after over five years of planning and construction. According to the Seoul Design Foundation's website, the DDP is "the biggest three-dimensional atypical building in the world." 

Just looking at it from the outside is a trip -- all the curves and silvery panels are just aesthetically pleasing. I'd noticed it being built during previous trips into Dongdaemun, wondering what on earth the giant alien structure was going to be, so I was quite eager to finally take a look around.

So photogenic!

The idea behind the DDP is that it will be a center for everything creative in the design community. Not only is it set up to feature exhibits from artists all over the world in its museum and exhibition halls, but it's full of little spots for these artists to actually sell their products. We were a little overwhelmed by the structure and didn't know where to start exactly with exploring the inside. Luckily, a map is posted at each entrance, explaining how the building is organized. Technically, it's kind of three buildings, which have been connected into one giant, curvy structure. Here's the map we found that was immensely helpful:

Keep an eye out for these on the walls by all the doors!

As you can kinda tell from the above map, the DDP is divided into three sections that are actually three buildings, connected by all the curvy, fancy architecture. The sections are split into zones that cover six floors. To help explain some of what we saw, I'll use the following pictures and their captions: 

This is a photo from the Design Market, which features various retail shops, many of which are chains that you'll see elsewhere in Korea, and a decent selection of restaurants in a food court. This area in particular is open 24 hours a day! Which is pretty perfect if you happen to be in the area to see Dongdaemun's night markets.

A couple shops in the Design Lab section. This was my favorite -- so many cool little stores selling products featuring up and coming designers. I feel like this would be a really, really good gift shopping spot. A lot of stationery items, gorgeous art prints, and other decorative items. I had to resist the urge to buy almost everything I saw.

Aerial shot of a different part of the Design Lab. 

Even the coffee shop looks all space age! The information desks scattered throughout the building also have bizarre designs, but this little pod cafe was my favorite.

We found little cubby holes! Perfect for children, and us, because we couldn't resist. Nearly everyone was stopping to take photos sitting in these little holes.

Everyone hanging out along the weird cubby-bench-wall. 

No clue why there was a room full of balloons, but no one could go in, and the struggle was real for these little kids. (And me too.)

Outside (and under?) the building is a large park area, called Oullim Square. While we were walking around, we caught sight of a suspicious number of girls in poofy-skirted dresses. Wondering if we might catch a flashmob, we stuck around, only to see not only an impromptu dance performance but also a magic show! 

From its stunning architecture to everything it offers inside, you could easily spend hours upon hours wandering around. In fact, despite the hours we spent there, we didn't see everything! I'm looking forward to going back soon to explore it more and see the building at night. As impressive as it looks during the day, in the evenings the panels light up, making it look even more like a spaceship from another world. 

So, after a day of wandering around the markets, or if you're looking to kill time before going to the late night markets, definitely make a stop by the Dongdaemun Design Plaza. Great shopping, random performances, lots of restaurants, and countless photo ops! 

Directions & information: 

• Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station, Seoul Metro Lines 2, 4, and 5, Exit 1. As soon as you go out of exit 1, you'll be in Oullim Square.
• Hours: Art Hall - 9am-7pm, Museum - 10am-7pm, Design Lab - 10am-10pm, Oullim Square & Design Market - 24 hours! 

Visiting Ulleungdo: Korea's "Mysterious" Island

Continuing in the vein of Things I Should've Blogged About Months Ago, here's another overdue entry: Ulleungdo. I still dream about this island, and I'm planning at least one photo blog as a follow-up to this entry. It was just so, so beautiful and I kind of wish I could live there. Sigh.

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This past year, Korea's Chuseok holiday fell on a Thursday, meaning we would have Wednesday-Friday off from work. A glorious 5-day weekend is a rare thing, so I was resolved to go somewhere. As I watched airplane tickets to international destinations steadily climb in price, I looked to domestic spots. Ulleungdo, an island off of Korea's east coast, was high on my Korea Bucket List, and the Chuseok weekend seemed like a prime opportunity.

I'd been drooling over pictures of Ulleungdo for over a year by the time I finally found the opportunity to go. As it's a bit of a trek away from Incheon, most holiday weekends weren't every quite long enough -- driving across the peninsula takes a good chunk of time, and that's without the ferry ride out into the East Sea to reach the island.

As if to further encourage my decision to finally head out to Ulleungdo, Adventure Korea had a special holiday trip to the island, which included pretty much everything -- transportation there and back, three nights in a hotel, various activities, as well as most of our meals. It all looked amazing and the price was right, so some friends and I booked our spots and started obsessively Googling the island.  

Ulleungdo, without a doubt, is breathtakingly beautiful, and aptly nicknamed the "mysterious" island because of its stunning scenery. Over and over I've read articles and blogs that claim Ulleungdo is actually better than Jeju. The two islands are similar in that they're both the result of volcanic activity, so both have striking land formations and great hiking paths. I've been to Jeju since this Ulleungdo trip, and since it was in late January, it wasn't exactly prime weather to fully appreciate Jeju's beauty. I'm reserving my final judgment for a time when I can see Jeju when it's lush and green, but I have a sneaking suspicion that Ulleungdo is actually prettier. 

Can I just live here?

Our Adventure Korea guides also insisted that Ulleungdo is better than Jeju, largely because they feel like Ulleungdo has yet to be overrun with tourists. While tourism is Ulleungdo's largest industry, it's less developed, so it still feels like a small island full of fishing villages. Island people just seem to move at a slower pace, which definitely makes for an appealing, relaxing vacation.

We left for the island on Tuesday night from Seoul, filling a couple buses that drove all night to the east coast. We stopped at a beach to watch the sunrise before heading to the ferry terminal. Our ferry left from Mukho harbor and took about 3 1/2 hours to reach Ulleungdo. Luckily, we had mostly clear skies to and from the island, but be warned that a ferry's voyage depends entirely on the weather. While it wasn't an issue for us, Adventure Korea wisely scheduled the return to the mainland on a Saturday just to allow for the potential delay due to bad weather. Also, should you be worried about seasickness, medicine can be purchased easily at your local pharmacy or in the ferry terminal itself. 

Our ride to the island: the Sunflower 2.

The inside of the ferry felt a lot like an airplane with sections of lettered and numbered assigned seats.

First glimpses of the island from the ferry window.

About 125 people were on the Adventure Korea trip, so they rented out what I assume must've been the majority of a hotel with traditional floor-mat sleeping. Our meals were largely in the hotel restaurant, which served a variety of Korean food buffet-style. 

Simple but comfortable. 

We spent our days on the island wandering around, following the seaside paths and various hiking trails to points that revealed gorgeous views of the island and deep turquoise blue water. The volcanic eruptions formed some really amazing caves, particularly right along the waterfront, through which walking paths have been built. 

I feel like this would be a lovely picnic spot.

Also included in our tour package was a cable car ride, which was a really spectacular way to get a bird's eye view on one of the villages. From the peak, we were able to look into some binoculars and see the nearby, and hotly contested, Dokdo. 

Dodong, where we were staying, from above.

On our second morning we had the option of a three hour bus tour, which drove along the coast and stopped at most of the picturesque sites, giving us time to wander around. This was especially awesome because our last day was largely free time, so the bus tour gave us a nice preview of areas that we might want to revisit. 

I went completely crazy taking pictures -- Korea in general is extremely photogenic with its mountains and palaces and neon lights, but Ulleungdo is on an entirely different level. I feel like it's actually a challenge to take a bad picture of this place. (Sorting through my 200+ pictures to choose a handful for this photo-heavy blog entry was hard!)

Turtle Rock, which was one of my favorite spots.

Samseonam Rock sticking up in the distance.

Another seaside walking path along/above/through the rocks.

Ulleungdo is well-known for two things: pumpkins and squid. Pumpkin candies, pumpkin bread, pumpkin jelly, and pumpkin makgeolli were everywhere, the latter being my personal favorite. Definitely something to hunt down when on the island. It was de-licious, especially when served up with some pajeon.

Hobak (pumpkins) as far as the eye can see! 

Their famous squid was literally everywhere. Racks of it were leaning up against every other house or restaurant, stretched out on a popsicle stick for drying. You could also eat squid in nearly every form: raw, semi-dried, totally dried, grilled, in soup... the list goes on and on. We didn't get a chance to sample the raw squid, but we did try a couple different varieties of the dried and had a really delicious squid soup for lunch. 

Melt-in-your-mouth delicious squid. 

One thing Ulleungdo lacks is the traditional sandy beaches. The beaches they do have are rocky, which left us really wishing we'd thought to bring water shoes. The rocky beaches did not, however, stop us from jumping in and swimming around. The water was cool and salty and felt amazing after a warm day of hiking around the island. (Though keep an eye out for jellyfish!)

There are a few spots where you can even jump into the water from a bridge or dock!

Ulleungdo is a small island, but there are so many other attractions we didn't get around to doing. There's a monorail, more seaside paths, tons of hiking, beautiful forests, and quite a few other rocky beaches. You can even take a ferry out to Dokdo and see it in person, should you care about that kind of thing. (I don't... Sorry, Korea.)

My typical go-getter approach to a vacation in a new place was heavily curbed by my need to relax -- I wanted to stroll along the shoreline, eat good food, collect bits of seaglass, and just soak up the sunshine and nature. 

Posing with Ulleungdo's happy little pumpkin and squid mascots.

Although I have a decent amount of time left in Korea and a lot of places left to check out, I already know that Ulleungdo is one of my favorite places that I have seen or will see. 

I think that going without a tour group wouldn't be as difficult as I'd initially thought from what I've read online, but it was definitely nice to have transportation and activities all arranged for us. (Though if you can go to Ulleungdo and have a car, you'll be golden. We had buses that drove us around and we used taxis a couple times, but being able to drive yourself would be ideal.) If you're looking for a pre-organized trip, I highly recommend Adventure Korea's annual Chuseok trip, so if you're already planning for this year's holiday, keep it in mind.

Between the rural, quiet fishing village vibe and the awe-inspiring scenery, I can't emphasize enough that you all need to go visit this island. You won't regret it.