Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea! The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. 

One thing that I really love about living in Korea is the history that's simply everywhere. With Korea's rapid modernization, fancy cities have sprung up around old structures, creating a really interesting contrast of the new against the historical. One of the coolest examples of this is Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress. It's right outside of Seoul, easily accessible via the subway, making it an excellent day trip that you should check out this summer!

Hwaseong Fortress was built in the 1790s under the reign of King Jeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty. It was designed to be a defensive structure, with 48 structures along the wall, including sentry posts and gun towers. It has four main gates, each facing a different cardinal direction, each of which are still impressive to see. The Korean War damaged the fortress, but in the 1970s, effort was made by the government to rebuild most of what was destroyed, with the current structure being about 75% of what it originally was. Then, in 1997, it was named a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.

See all the holes in the walls? All for defensive measures.

What stands today is a fascinating look into Korea's history, juxtaposed with the hustle and bustle of one of Korea's main cities. It really is neat to see cars zipping down the street right next to the walls of the fortress -- just as you forget you're in the middle of the city, you look out from above the wall and are reminded of the stark contrast.

One of the many lookout spots.

Walking along the fortress wall is what I would recommend doing, which stretches 5.25 kilometers. Though I will warn you that it's a lot of stairs, just like much of the hiking in Korea. Definitely hike all the way up Paldalsan -- the fortress wall snakes up the mountain and leads to a lookout spot that offers a really stunning view of Suwon and its surrounding area. 

As high up as we could get.

City, city, and more city. 

In the middle of the fortress walls lies a palace, Haenggung, that was built not only as a place for the king to stay in when visiting Suwon, but also to serve as the king's residence since King Jeongjo supposedly planned to move the capital from Seoul to Suwon. This never happened due to his sudden death, but the palace remains and was a lot of fun to wander through while we were exploring the fortress.

Directions and Information: 

• Suwon Station, Seoul Subway Line 1
• Exit 4 -- the Tourist Information Center outside this exit can direct you to the city bus that heads in the direction of the fortress. 
• Hours: 9am-6pm, March-October; 9am-5pm, November-February
• Admission: 1,000 won
• For more information, visit the Korea Tourism's site here or the official site for Hwaseong here.

Definitely give yourself at least a few hours to hike the whole thing, and maybe plan to pack some food. There are spots all long the wall to stop and rest, so I think this would be a great spot for a picnic while you soak up the history of this old structure that still stands smack in the middle of a modern Korean city! 

5 MORE Must-See Spots in Incheon, Korea

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea! The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots for sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. 

Nearly a year ago, I covered the top 5 things to do in Incheon: the world famous Incheon International Airport, Muuido/Wolmido/other surrounding islands, Chinatown/Jayu Park, Bupyeong Underground Shopping Center, and Soraepogu Fish Market. Now, after trying my hardest to do more exploring in the time since that post, I've come up with 5 more things worth checking out when you come visit Incheon. 

1. Songdo

Songdo is Incheon's new up-and-coming area for business. My CDI branch recently relocated to Songdo and I've really been enjoying exploring the area. There's good shopping and tons of great restaurants, so I definitely recommend wandering through this area. Keep an eye out for blog entries about Songdo coming soon!

2. Songdo's Central Park

I recently spend an early evening wandering around Songdo's Central Park and I was so taken with its landscaping and design that it gets a mention of its own. I am intensely jealous of the families living within walking distance of this park because I would probably go there daily if I could. While exploring Songdo, definitely make time to walk along the canal that runs through the park, taking time to rent a little peddle boat or to relax in one of the little gazebos.

More info can be found here via Trazy.

3. Eulwangri Beach

I love living near the ocean, but Incheon is unfortunately mostly shipyards. You can stroll along the shoreline in some areas, but as far as lounging on a beach goes, this isn't the place. However, beaches are still nearby, which I'm quite excited to explore as the temperatures climb in the coming months. On Yeongjong Island, aka the island where Incheon International Airport is located, is a pretty, white sand beach: Eulwangri.

Check this out for more details.

4. Incheon Grand Park

The beautiful spring weather has me somewhat fixated on spending time outdoors right now, hence another mention of a park. Incheon Grand Park is still on my to-do list, but I'm really looking forward to checking it out. The park boasts 727 acres of land that includes a botanical garden, a zoo, hiking, and bike rental -- definitely sounds like a great place to spend a day soaking up the sun.

5. Sinpo Market

I spent an afternoon in Sinpo Market last summer during my great K-pop adventure and really enjoyed it. Largely, the draw is the food, and much like other traditional markets (such as Gwangjang in Seoul), you should enter Sinpo with an appetite. When I visited, I was unaware of the market's specialty food: dakgangjeong, which is fried chicken in a sweet and spicy sauce. Since I'm a sucker for Korean street and market foods, I'm definitely planning to make a trip back just to try that chicken.

More info here!

Honorable Mention: The 17th Asian Games

Since this is a 2014-only event, it's getting placed as an honorable mention. From the 19th of September to the 4th of October, Incheon is hosting the 17th Asian Games and it sounds like it's going to be quite the event. I've always been interested in attending a big sports event like this, so I'm looking forward to checking it out this fall.

Have you been to any of these spots in Incheon? Do you know of anything else to do in Incheon that I've completely failed to mention? Leave a comment below! 

New Favorite Spot: Bukchon Hanok Village

Just a short jaunt from my favorite area of Seoul, Insadong, is a neighborhood that's vying for the number two spot. Nestled between two palaces and overlooking hip Samcheongdong is the Bukchon Hanok Village -- narrow winding streets flanked with gorgeous hanok houses. I've taken a stroll through this neighborhood several times now and it just never gets old. Not only is this area ridiculously photogenic, but it also offers a variety of cultural activities and history lessons! 

Old and new.

Here's the basic history of the area: During the Joseon Dynasty, when the surrounding palaces, Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, were actually inhabited, the Bukchon area served as the residential quarters for the upper class, such as nobility and high-ranking government officials. Urbanization, naturally, harmed these neighborhoods, as did the years of Japanese occupation and subsequent war. 

In the years after the Korean war, Seoul's rapid modernization lead to the demolition of even more hanok houses. It wasn't until the 2000s that the Seoul Metropolitan Government created new policies to beautify and preserve what was left of the hanok houses. 

The hanok houses themselves are works of art. The slope of the rooftops is just aesthetically pleasing, and all the intricate patterns on the walls, windows, and doors will keep any photo-happy tourist busy for hours. 

In addition to being a touristy, gorgeous neighborhood, it's actually still just that -- a neighborhood. As you walk around, you'll see signs about the neighborhood's curfew as well as a reminder to respect the privacy of the residents. 

If you're hoping to get a glimpse inside the hanok houses, don't worry. They aren't all residential. In fact, many have been turned into mini-museums, showcasing artifacts and "intangible" cultural heritage. 

My first visit to Bukchon, I was completely unaware that these types of activities existed. Arriving shortly before closing time 5pm, we realized we were missing out on a ton of cultural workshops. I then vowed to go back and try to start exploring what the different hanok houses had to offer. 

Just look for signs like this outside some of the hanok houses -- it means there's something cool inside! 

When I was in Bukchon most recently, we wandered into a hanok house that had a sign outside advertising different kinds of alcohol. When we walked in, we were immediately greeted by an older gentleman who worked there and spoke excellent English. He told us about the history of the neighborhood, the house we were in, and led us through the different gallery rooms with display cases full of beautiful folk crafts.

After we looked all around, our host told us about what this particular hanok house offered: soju tasting. We all grimaced, as it was around noon, but he assured us that it was just tiny samples.

Only three of our party decided to do the alcohol tasting, and the price listed above provided enough for us to split it.

From top to bottom: the (very strong) soju, the yakju, and the makgeolli. The makgeolli and yakju were my favorites! 

After sampling the drinks, we made more conversation with our host and were brought free samples of moju, which I had never had before. It's a "folk" liquor that's made from boiling down makgeolli and mixing it with medicinal herbs. It was sweet and warm and delicious -- also with a very low alcohol content. Our host told us that it's thought of as a drink served by Korean moms since it's full of herbs and spices! 

We didn't have time to check out any of the other hanok houses on this particular visit, which I suppose just means I'll have to be making another weekend trip over there sometime soon. No complaints here -- I saw signs on other hanok houses for embroidery and pottery museums, which might even include some kind of workshop! 

For more information about the attractions of Bukchon, check out this excellent website by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. You can read more about the history as well as getting a preview of the museums, cultural workshop experiences, and a map for a walking tour. As you walk around, keep an eye out for information guides -- they'll have red aprons and are always happy to hand you a map and suggest the best route. 

Directions: 

• Anguk Station (on Line 3), Exit 2. 
• Walk straight for about 300m, keeping an eye out for signs/Tourist Information Center. 

I highly recommend spending an afternoon (or four) in the Bukchon Hanok Village. Between the photo opportunities and all the activities, it's definitely a neat, culturally infused way to learn more about Korea's past. 

Have you been to the Bukchon Hanok Village or any other hanok villages in Korea? Leave a comment below to share your experiences or thoughts! 

Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art in Seoul

Near the end of 2013, years of construction finally came to a close and the Seoul branch of Korea's Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art opened. Located next to Gyeongbok Palace in my favorite area of Seoul, this new museum offers excellent exhibits that range from sculptures, paintings, and interactive installations. I happily spent a few hours there recently and I highly recommend checking it out while you're in Seoul!  

Two other branches of the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art already exist in Korea: Gwacheon and Deoksugung, and a fourth branch is still under construction Cheongju. The museum features art from Korean artists as well as international artists, with an impressive range of pieces. 

Personally, I'm not always a big fan of modern art, but I was very impressed with the pieces in the Seoul branch. I can't wait to go back actually, especially once the exhibits turnover and new pieces are brought in. 

As soon as we arrived, I was immediately impressed with the musuem and its staff. We got there a little after 5pm, ready to pay the 7,000 won admission for all exhibits. The staff politely stopped us from paying, informing us that after 6pm, admission to the museum was free. Not wanting to kill time for 45 minutes, we went ahead a paid for admission, but I definitely respect their kindness and honesty. If anything, it made me even more willing to support the museum with my 7,000 won.  

Ticket.

The pieces are spread well throughout the museum, from gallery rooms featuring a traveling exhibition to installations on the walls of the hallways or hanging from the ceiling. I was unsure of the picture-taking policy of the museum, as I didn't spot any of the typical "No Photography" signs, so I snapped pictures as we went so I could show off the range of art the museum offers. 

Entrance to one of the galleries.

The Zeitgeist Korea exhibit currently occupies two galleries. Some of my favorite pieces were part of this exhibit -- really expressive paintings and creative techniques. (The Zeitgeist Korea exhibit was the one place where I hesitated to take photos -- my gut instinct told me that it wasn't at all allowed, but I still don't know for sure.)

Outside of the rooms holding exhibits, the next photos should give you an idea of the art that's on (and in) the walls of the hallways: 

Huge installation on a hallway wall in the museum.

Performance art in the form of an opera singer. The information on the wall said the artist found great comfort in Schubert's Lieder, so this interactive performance art was set up. The listener, seated in the chair, would be given the gift of song by one of the hired opera singers. This guy had a beautiful voice and we were mesmerized by this performance.

  

Don't forget to look up! This thing was moving, too!

Going back into the galleries, we came across more interactive pieces that allowed patrons to walk around in the middle of the installations:

Projectors in the four corners of the room lit up all these big rectangles with images.

This huge, intricate piece looked like it was made with pieces of plastic trash, but it was full of sensors that would make the piece move in response to the movements of the patrons walking around.

It was definitely weird, but it also just looked so cool.

This room had a story being displayed on all four walls and in order to (try to) read it all, we had to quickly spin on the spot to chase the words around the room. This is just a portion of one wall.

My favorite piece in the whole museum was this one, entitled "Home Within Home Within Home Within Home Within Home," by Do Ho Suh. Believe it or not, this giant, detailed blue structure is made of fabric. The outer structure is a Western-style townhouse and inside, there's a smaller structure hanging from the ceiling that is in the style of a traditional Korean home. 

The line to get in.

Amazing detail.

Museum Information: 

• Directions: Anguk Station Exit 1, Gyeongbokgung Station Exit 6, or Gwanghwamun Station Exit 2. Handy map can be found here. 
• Admission: 7,000 won for all exhibits, either 3,000 or 5,000 for individual exhibits. Free admission for special exhibitions on Museum Day -- last Wednesday of every month.
• Hours: Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sun - 10:00am~6:00pm, Wed & Sat - 10:00am~9:00pm (and free after 6:00pm!), closed Mon & national holidays.

Have you been to the MMCA Seoul yet? What about any of the other branches in Korea? Leave your thoughts below! 

My Favorite Spots on Jeju Island

Well, I should amend that title by saying these are my favorite spots from my first visit to Jeju... I'm sure future visits will introduce me to other places that are equally awesome. My recent Jeju trip was over the Lunar New Year holiday, which was a four-day weekend. The end of January isn't ideal Jeju weather, but it didn't stop us from touring all over the island and thoroughly enjoying ourselves. Here's the best of what I saw... 

One of Jeju's famous dol hareubang, or stone grandfathers.

Our trip to Jeju was part of an organized tour, and honestly, I'm kinda happy we had the guidance. Normally I love plotting out an entire vacation, but this time I wanted to have a weekend of not worrying about what came next. I definitely appreciated having a chartered bus and no responsibility. We went with one of the popular expat tour groups: When in Korea. After doing this tour, I feel like I've gotten my bearings enough to plan a really awesome return trip around Jeju. 

The tour itself was a whirlwind of activities, so here are my favorites: 

Olle Trail #7

Jeju's 13 Olle Walking Trails are a big attraction on the island. We only walked along this one, but it was beautifully scenic and I was impressed with the sights we saw. Plus, it was a spring-like, sunny day and it was just really nice to stroll along the seaside. 

Oedolgae Rock.

Possibly one of the coolest things to see along this trail are the Jusangjeolli Rock Column Formations. Jeju Island is a product of the volcanic eruptions of Hallasan, so all over the island, you'll see crazy lava formations. In this case, the lava formed hexagonal columns that don't at all look natural: 

Jusangjeolli Rock Column Formations.

Jusangjeolli Rock Column Formations -- so cool! 

A shot of the trail - so pretty.

Yongmeori Coast

This was possibly my favorite part of the whole weekend. Not only was it a stunning location, but we had a lot of fun trekking around and taking photos. Yongmeori Coast, also known as Dragon Head Coast, is right next to Mt. Sanbangsan. 

Layer after layer of limestone deposits.

The rock is full of tiny little caves and spots for sitting. 

With Sanbangsan in the background.

Orange picking!

Jeju is quite famous for a few things, and from my experience in Korea, it seems as though their oranges hold the number one spot. I was really excited to see that our tour included a stop for all-you-can-pick-and-eat at an orange orchard! We only had ten minutes to stuff ourselves (and possibly our bags...) with these sweet little oranges, but it was definitely worth it. Pruning shears were passed out, a timer was set, and we went crazy. 

Trees ready for picking.

Give me all the oranges you have.

Kimnyoung Maze Park

If you've ever wanted to reenact Harry Potter or Labyrinth, I've found the place to go. This giant hedge maze was a rather whimsical part of our tour, but I really enjoyed it. Unfortunately, this part of the tour was during the day when the weather decided to be rainy, making the maze less enjoyable than it would have been otherwise. We did, however, still laugh hysterically as we got completely lost. Also, because our umbrellas were too wide for the maze and we kept getting stuck: 

We just want to get out! 

We never found the center of the maze... Instead, we managed to make our way back to the entrance? Accidentally, of course.

Manjanggul Lava Tube

As I discovered last fall when I explored Hwanseongul on Korea's east coast, I love caves. They fascinate me. Getting to walk inside the massive Manjanggul Lava Tube was no exception. Designated as a natural monument and UNESCO World Heritage site, it was created by the lava flow from several volcanic eruptions. It's actually part of an entire system of lava tubes that are at least 100,000 years old.

Just awesome.

Make sure you stop and check out the different lava formations as you walk.

Going early in the morning is recommended -- it was so empty!

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Next time I visit Jeju, I'll definitely be ready to tackle more of the island. Warmer weather will call for more time spent on Jeju's beaches, checking out the waterfalls, and maybe even escaping the heat in museums. There's just so much to do! 

Any recommendations on what can't be missed on Jeju? Leave a comment below! 

Quirky & Charming: Samcheongdong's Owl Museum

In case you haven't noticed, owls are super "in" right now, and Korea is definitely following suit. They also happen to be one of my favorite animals and in the past decade or so, I've amassed quite an owl collection. You can just imagine my elation and fascination, then, when I heard that Seoul has an actual Owl Museum! After spending the morning walking around the Bukchon Hanok Village, my friends and I wandered through the neighboring Samcheongdong to see what this Owl Museum was all about... 

Now, to be clear: this is not a museum with live owls. (Though, that would be really cool.) Korea is famous for its weird cafes, including a variety of live animal ones, but this is simply a little cafe that is stuffed to the rafters (literally) with owl everything. 

The most wonderful facade this owl lover has ever seen.

A mural on the outside of the museum.

All the info you need about the museum. 

According to the information page we were given upon entering, the owls inside the cafe are all from the personal collection of Mrs. Myeong-Hee Bae, who has been collecting for over 40 years! She started young and has made an effort to find unique owls everywhere she goes. Even her family and friends have gotten on board, collecting owls for her when they see one that's worthy of being added to her collection.

A cute little bench, surrounded by owls, and perfect for a photo!

Everywhere you look -- owls.

The museum supposedly houses 3,000 owls, though I would argue that there are even more than that. I could've spent hours marveling over all of her owl pieces -- little figurines to huge paintings to ceramic plates to a Harry Potter and Hedwig blanket tacked to the ceiling. Basically, I was in complete awe of all of her owls and she might be my hero. 

Shelves absolutely packed full -- some of the owls were the size of a fingernail! 

In addition to her collection being so huge, it boasts owls from around 80 different countries, "including China, Japan, Indonesia, Russia, and Zimbabwe." 

I dare you not to be impressed.

The drink menu.

There was an entrance fee of 5,000 won, but it came with a complimentary drink. We were then given little pieces of paper, Owl Museum branded stamps, markers, and crayons. I imagine that this caters to small children in particular, but we immediately started drawing owls of our own and carefully coloring them in while we sipped on our tea. 

Her gorgeous plate collection.

Information:

• Opening hours: 10am-8pm
• Closed every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday
• Entrance fee: 5,000 won (comes with complimentary drink)
• For more information, visit the Owl Museum's website, which includes a map that's helpful for navigating the streets of Samcheongdong. 

The area surrounding the Owl Museum is my favorite area of Seoul -- you have Insadong, two of the big palaces, the Bukchon Hanok Village, and of course, trendy Samcheongdong. It was a quiet, visually entertaining afternoon in the museum, and if you're working your way down the list of strange Korean cafes/museums, make sure to add this one. I highly recommend stopping by this odd but charming little museum when you're in the area!