Korea & Its Cafes: Animal Edition

Do you miss your pet(s) from home? Do you enjoy looking at sheep? Do you have calloused feet? I know these questions might seem a little odd, but read on.

Cafe culture in Korea is serious business -- I can't spit without hitting a cafe in my neighborhood. In addition to your run of the mill coffee shops, cafes with specific themes abound. In my time in Korea, I've visited a board game cafe and the Mustoy cafe, but I have to admit, I've always been the most excited about the availability of a completely different cafe theme: animals. And now that it's starting to get cold here in Korea, it's the perfect time to hang out indoors! 

Here are the four animal-themed cafes I've visited so far, listed in order of my least to most favorite.

Sheep Cafe

This cafe, which is actually called Thanks Nature Cafe, is located in Hongdae, Seoul. It's cute, with sheep-related paintings and decorations hanging inside the cafe. We tried coffee, some ades, and a dessert while we were there, and all were decent.

The draw of this cafe, as I'm sure you've guessed, is their sheep. Don't expect a flock -- to my knowledge they only have two. They don't seem to typically be wandering around freely, either. Instead, they're in a small pen on the patio outside the actual coffee shop. You can snap pictures and watch them, but that's about it. Overall: so-so. The novelty is fun for a few minutes, then it wears off.

Information: Check their Facebook page for more info. The cafe is located in the basement of its building, so when you go looking for it, keep an eye out for the sign in the photo above. 

Dr. Fish Cafe

Sometimes, your feet are just gnarly and you need a bunch of little fish to munch on the dead skin.

The sensation is a strange one -- it kind of tickles, but it also doesn't. I didn't notice a huge change in the softness of my feet after letting the fish have at it, but that was probably because I couldn't stand to keep my feet in the pool for very long at a time. I also opted for the much smaller fish, as the larger ones (as seen in the photo on the left) just freaked me out.

You do need to order a drink to do Dr. Fish, and then the cost for Dr. Fish is just a couple thousand won per 15 minutes. These cafes also seem to always offer a bread buffet (baguette slices, cake-like bread, butter, and jam), complete with toasters to warm up the slices. Overall: weird, but cool. Definitely one to check out, even if the feeling (or general concept) of the fish freaks you out.

Information: Of the two Dr. Fish cafes I've been to, the one in Gangnam is the nicest. To get there, walk straight from exit 10 of Gangnam station. You'll walk for about 5 minutes, then the cafe is on the second floor of a building on your left. 

Cat Cafe

I'm not lacking in cat snuggles personally, since my boyfriend adopted a cat from a shelter outside of Seoul, but a cafe full of cats still got my attention.

Before you can pet and cuddle all the cats in these cafes, you're required to purchase a drink, which essentially serves as your admission fee. Drinks are pricier here, usually closer to 8,000 won or so, but it's worth it. 

I was impressed with how clean this particular cat cafe was, so I feel like they take good care of the cats. You can buy a can of food or little treats for the cats, which will make them swarm you, which is basically heaven for cat lovers. Overall: awesome. Cats are so weird.

Information: Cat cafes seem to be everywhere, so instead of providing detailed directions, I will point you in the direction of these blogs. In popular areas of Seoul, such as Myeongdong or Hongdae, just keep an eye out for someone in a Garfield costume -- they work for a cat cafe and can easily point you in the right direction!

Dog Cafe

The best for last -- because I do believe that dog cafes are magical places. I'm a dog lover to a possibly neurotic degree, and when I moved to Korea, I had to leave my darling miniature schnauzer with my parents. Spending time at the dog cafe helps fill the canine-shaped hole in my heart.

While smaller dog cafes seem to be popping up more and more, the most well known dog cafe would be the Bau House in the Hongdae area of Seoul. This cafe operates by the same rules as cat cafes: buy a drink, play with animals. There's also a variety of treats to buy, which will make you quite popular with the dogs.

Some dogs only want to hang out with you for the treats you have, but others seem to just enjoy the attention. There are usually a few dogs happy to curl up next to you and have their head scratched. The only off-putting part of this cafe is that it is dirtier, as dogs are wont to be, but the staff is quick to swoop in and clean up. Overall: THE BEST. Because dogs. Obviously.

Information: Bau House is located near exit 3 of Hapjeong Station. Make a right as you leave the exit, then walk down the nearest alley to the left, keeping an eye out for the sign to your right. There are also other dog cafes in Seoul, but I haven't checked any of them out yet. For more of my ramblings about my love for dog cafes, check out this entry from 2012.

Have you visited any of the animal cafes in Korea? Do you know of any that I didn't mention? Leave a comment below! 

My Favorite Korean Palace: Gyeongbokgung

The weather is finally getting warmer and in anticipation of the prime sightseeing and out-of-doors season, I've been revisiting pictures from my past springs and summers in Korea. I can't wait to get out and take full advantage of my upcoming weekends -- there are so many festivals coming up! One of my favorite spots that I'm looking forward to revisiting this springtime is the grandest of the five palaces in Seoul: Gyeongbokgung.

So here's a glimpse into this palace's grounds through photos I've taken over the past couple of years...

The Joseon Dynasty, which began in 1392 and lasted nearly five centuries, is responsible for the construction of the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul: Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, Changgeyonggung, Gyeonghuigung, and of course, Gyeongbokgung. It's on my Korea Bucket List to visit each of these palaces, but I've only seen two of the five so far because something keeps pulling me back to Gyeongbokgung whenever I get the chance. 

Gyeongbokgung was first built in 1395 and served as the main palace for the Joseon Dynasty. Its time as the king's primary residence was disrupted, however, by its destruction in the 1590s due to Japanese invasion and war. Beginning in 1868, the palace was restored and expanded, only to take serious hits in the first half of the 20th Century under Japan's occupation.

Since 1990, the Korean Government has been working on restoring the palace to its former grandeur, with it being approximately half completed at this point.

So why do I love this palace so much? Well, basically, because it's just gorgeous. The palace grounds are absolutely massive, so with each trip, I find an area I hadn't fully explored the time before. The whole place is just outrageously photogenic and wandering around aimlessly is relaxing and peaceful.

If you like museums, also be sure to check out the National Palace Museum of Korea, which is located right outside the palace walls, and the National Folk Museum of Korea, which is within the palace grounds. (Definitely something to keep in mind if you're visiting the palace during the summer heat!)

Something else that I love about the palace are the cultural programs and events that it hosts. A couple years ago, some friends and I went to Gyeongbokgung during the Chuseok holiday because we had read about the variety of performances and activities that had been designed for the holiday weekend. We saw traditional dancing, did some arts and crafts, and ate good food. If you're ever in need of somewhere to go for a holiday weekend in Korea, look into what the palaces are hosting!

Directions and information:

• Subway: Gyeongbokgung Station, Seoul Metro Line 3, Exit 5. 
• Admission cost: 3,000 won.
• Hours: Opens at 9am year-round; closes at 5pm November-February, 6pm March-May/September-October, and 6:30pm June-August. 
• Closed: Tuesdays.
• Gyeongbokgung Official website.
• For more information about the palace, here's an interactive map of the palace grounds from the Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea and the informational website from the Korea Tourism Organization.

Monthly Photo Recap: September 2013

I'm not really sure where the month of September went... In fact, I'm completely bewildered by the fact that we're already a week into October? September was full of the beginnings of fall, a Chuseok vacation to the beautiful island of Ulleungdo, and the start of my mom's visit to Korea! I was kept pretty busy, as can be seen by all the blog entries and emails that are piling up...

Surprisingly, I didn't take many pictures last month. Well, on Ulleungdo I took a cool 200, but I don't want to post too many of those here... they deserve their own blog! So, this month's photo recap will be a little shorter than the past two. October's, however, is already off to a bangin' start.

Enjoy!

So, I went to a K-pop concert... It was interesting. I came out of it caring no more or no less about K-pop than I did going in, which is fine. It just isn't my "thing," but I still had a really good time. Blog entries about the whole experience are going up soon -- we got in for free for participating in a K-pop flash mob! Pretty cool. Stay tuned for the full story. 

EXO, at the concert, Incheon Korean Music Wave 2013. 

We had -incredible- seats, by the way. :)

Scorsese is such a weirdo. Cats are aliens.

But why?

I got to check out a HUGE exhibit of original Studio Ghibli sketches -- it was pretty amazing. 

And across from the Ghibli exhibit was a wonderful Mucha show -- seriously awe-inspiring. As a massive Mucha fan, it was nearly a religious experience for me. 

Starting off my Chuseok vacation the right way: watching the sunrise on a beach on Korea's east coast.

Ulleungdo! Billions of photo-heavy blog entries coming soon about this magical place. 

I would happily trek along Ulleungdo's coast every. single. day. 

Me and my mom! In Korea! 

Mom brought Reese's to help build our depleted stockpile back up. Sorry, not sharing. 

It isn't quite cold enough for "real" sweaters yet, but they're already on the racks in the subway shopping centers! And for W10,000 each?! (That's less than $10 USD, y'all.) Can't wait to wear these this winter. I think I have a sweater buying problem. (Also, I need to clean my mirror... -_- )

I envy all the napping he gets to do.

Ended the month with the last day of the Gauguin exhibit in Seoul, which was really great. Way too crowded, but that's what we get for going on the last day... Still worth it. 

Tastes Like Home: A Trip to Costco in Korea

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea. The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. It has been edited slightly for content. For more information about Aclipse and Chungdahm Learning, click here. 

As much as I adore Korean food, sometimes I just need a break from all the rice and kimchi. The availability of western brands and products in the regular supermarkets is definitely respectable, but there are just some things the likes of Lotte Mart, Home Plus, and E-Mart don't carry. Luckily, Costco does exist in Korea, and it's basically a mecca for Westerners who need to stock up on some favorites from home. 

Cue choirs of angels singing.

Costco has quite a few locations around Korea. Even though the store closest to me, living in Incheon, is over an hour away in Seoul, getting there and back is pretty painless if you're willing to put in the time and energy. 

Speaking of the time and energy, you're probably wondering what would draw my friends and I all the way to Seoul just for Costco. One word: sandwiches. Deli meats, quality cheese, pesto, real bagels, kettle-style chips... Unfortunately, these are all things that are difficult to track down in Korea, save for areas like Itaewon or the military bases. Like I said above, my local grocery stores are amazing, but they still just don't have the things I need for a good sandwich. (Korean ham is... odd. More on the bagels later...) And for me, a good sandwich is simply a priority in my life. 

So cheap! 

Two awesome things about Costco: 1. Memberships from home will work! They're international. 2. But, if you don't have one from home and you're getting a membership in Korea, good news! It's cheaper than back home! I know in the States, for example, a membership is around $55, whereas in Korea, you're looking at ₩30,000, or roughly $27 USD. And that's for a whole year. Not bad, eh? 

Getting signed up is easy -- just look for the membership desk that'll be near the entrance. 

We immediately detoured through the food court for some hotdogs, wisely deciding that hungry Costco shopping was dangerous.

Korean Costco itself looks pretty standard -- just like the ones back home, it's a huge warehouse with its shelves piled high, full of family-sized boxes and bottles. The one we went to was two floors, with the food being a level below the appliances and housewares. 

Where the magic happens: the food section.

You'll find the typical range of items: cereal, snacks, candy, various sauces, frozen dinners, tubs of ice cream. This being Asia, you'll also find huge bags of rice, an assortment of frozen dumplings, and giant jugs of soy sauce. They have everything. To entice you a little more, and allay any fears of disappointment over Costco's selection of deli meats and such, I offer the following pictures as proof:

Wonderful, delicious ham, turkey, salami... They also have pastrami and prosciutto, among others that I'm forgetting now.

Just a small section of the cheese area. Fills my heart with joy. They also have a great selection of Tilamook cheese. 

Real bagels! 

Some of you may not be as picky about bagels as I am, but I've been really underwhelmed with the bagels produced by various Korean bakeries and coffee shops -- not enough flavor, not very dense, generally plain... But Einstein Bros? Oh, man, I love that place back home. So, I bought four packages. Of six. No exaggeration. (Most of them went into the freezer though, to save for later.) 

Considering we were there on a Saturday afternoon, it was surprisingly calm.

In addition to this past weekend's Costco haul, we've picked up quite a variety of things over the past almost-two years in Korea. They've got good salsa, huge packages of tortillas, spices, good coffee, sour cream, granola bars -- you name it. Last Thanksgiving, we even got a turkey, which definitely made our expat gathering even better. 

Directions to the Yeongdeungpo-Gu Office area Costco:

• From Yeongdeungpo-Gu Office Station Exit 3, head in the direction of the KB, making a right into the alley. (So, if you're coming out of the exit from the subway, do an immediate u-turn.)
• Walk straight down the alley for five minutes or so until you come to a light -- at this point you should see Costco dead in front of you. 
  
  

Exit 3 of the station -- walk straight from here, towards those pointy shrubs, and make a right into the alley!

The Costco haul! Full disclosure: This was for three people. I may have bought 24 bagels, but I'm not this intense. 

Taking a trip to Costco may require some strategic planning -- it'll likely be a bit of a trek for you to ge there and whatever you buy, you've gotta get it home somehow. But, I highly recommend checking it out whenever you're feeling homesick while teaching in Korea. My advice: bring a backpack, some large tote bags, and don't let yourself get too overwhelmed by all the wonderful things that you want to eat. 

Have you been to Costco in Korea? What foods do you miss from home that you have a hard time finding? Leave a comment below! 

Just how safe is life in South Korea?

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea. The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. It has been edited slightly for content. For more information about Aclipse and Chungdahm Learning, click here. 

When you're facing moving to the other side of the world, having tons of questions and concerns is only natural. Your recruiter/school contact will be able to answer the obvious questions -- pay, hours, living arrangements, et cetera. But even with those answers, you'll have more questions. One of my biggest questions was about safety. Do I need to worry about thieves? What about North Korea? What about my safety as a woman walking down the sidewalk alone and late at night? Here's the low-down on what to expect.

1. Pickpockets and muggers.

As is evident from photos of life in Korea, it's a wee bit crowded. In quite a few areas of the world, that's an immediate red flag. You begin planning how you can carry money discreetly, you worry about walking around with a nice DSLR camera hanging around your neck... These are valid concerns.

However, in Korea, you don't need to worry about this. At all.

Welcome to the Seoul Metro system on the weekends.

Jostling through a crowded subway car? Don't worry about someone swiping you wallet or phone, just think about how you can hold your belongings closer so as not to bump into too many people. Flashing your fancy camera around? Don't worry -- everyone else is too. (Seriously, it seems like every other person is an amateur photographer with a super nice camera.)  

I know quite a few people who have lost purses, backpacks, and phones in anywhere from a bar to a cab to a bus, all of which made their way back to them again. I mean, my boyfriend left his backpack on a city bus, it circled its entire route and came back to where we got off over an hour later -- and the backpack was still there, including its valuable contents: his passport and his hard drive. Completely untouched.

There seems to be a general attitude of "I don't want to take your stuff and you don't want to take mine." It's easy to fall into this mutual agreement of trust and it definitely makes life and traveling a little less stressful. 

2. North Korea.

According to Western media, North Korea is constantly on the verge of losing their minds and attempting to blow up the entire world. I mean, technically, the two Koreas are still at war, with 1953's "resolution" simply being a cease-fire agreement. But life here gives no indication that it's essentially a warzone, with the exception of a conspicuous military presence, both Korean and American.

Oh, hey, North Korea. Things are looking pretty calm. 

During the most recent "scare" this past spring, I was actually back in the States on vacation, and it was truly interesting to watch Western media's take on the whole drama. On the news, it looked like North Korea had its finger on the trigger, ready and waiting for the right opportunity to strike. Feeling slightly concerned, and being barraged with questions of "Are you seriously going to go back to Korea," I checked in with my boyfriend and friends back in Incheon. Everything was fine. The Koreans weren't even remotely concerned, placing no stock in the empty threats from the North.

For South Korea, hearing the North make empty threats is just another day. It doesn't happen regularly, but the drama of the North's hermit regime has been such a constant for the past sixty years, so the citizens here don't give it a second thought. My students and I have dicussed this at length, and the reaction is always the same: a shrug and an eyeroll, as if to say, "Oh, psh, silly North Korea." 

Plus, the bottom line is: If the North actually attempts to do anything, the greater military powers of this world will ensure that attempt is the end of North Korea -- which is the last thing the North Korean government actually wants. Between the ominous threat of the U.S. and the North's own sense of self-preservation, nothing is going to happen, and living in the South is as safe as can be. 

3. As a woman.

Back home in Oklahoma and Texas, walking down a dark side street to my car late at night would put me on edge. Living in Korea, I've been pleased with how safe I feel when I'm walking alone at night. It's been very rare that I've actually felt the need to keep my guard up and really watch my surroundings. 

Largely, you're going to see plenty of other people out late walking around (many of them will be students, on their way home from studying), and they aren't going to have any more interest in you than you do in them. I have friends (who are ladies) who like to go on late night walks after eating dinner, and they've never felt like they were in an unsafe situation. 

For the most part, the come-ons I've gotten from men have been very polite, like this greasy pizza box paper, delivered by a waiter from a drunk group of Korean men. 

Obviously, use your common sense and judgment. Some dark alleys should still be avoided. You're still going to be leered at by drunken businessmen, and some men might even attempt to catcall you with a "Hello! Beautiful!" But not once have any of these men actually been aggressive -- at least not to me. It would be absurd to rule out the possibility of this happening, but it definitely isn't as bad as home. I've felt safe and generally completely ignored, which is exactly how a late night stroll should feel. 

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From talking with friends and discussing safety in Korea, there was overwhelming agreement that this country, considering how jam-packed it is with people, is amazingly safe and calm. We never worry for our safety while living here, which is not something most of us can say of our home countries. So don't let yourself be concerned! Safety is not worth stressing over -- instead let yourself get worked up over some of the legitimate concerns: how to fill your free time with the maximum amount of exploring and street food eating. 

Do you have any additional feedback about safety in Korea? Anything to add? Anthing I've forgotten? Leave it in the comments below! 

Top 5 Must-See Spots in Incheon, South Korea!

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea! The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. 

When Aclipse helped me get placed at a Chungdahm branch in Incheon in November 2011, I immediately started doing my research. I was pleased to see that it's the third largest city in Korea and it's next door to Seoul -- meaning popping into the city for weekend adventures would be a cinch. However, I quickly noticed that there's a serious lack of Incheon-coverage in the blog world. So, I present, in no particular order, my top 5 spots to check out in Incheon! 

1. Incheon International Airport

Chances are, you'll be checking out the airport whether you mean to or not, simply because you'll be flying in here. But let's be real: that first visit through the airport when you arrive is going to be a blur and you're probably going to miss all of the cool things. 

What makes this airport top 5 worthy? Well, for starters, it's been rated the best airport in the world for the past seven years. Also, it happens to have a spa, an ice skating rink, a casino, a golf course, and all the duty free shops you could ever want. 

And check out that architectural design! This airport just looks cool, you guys.

So, while it may seem strange, by Western standards, to hang out at an airport, my students tell me it is a thing. And honestly, an airport that boasts a spa, ice skating, golfing, and the obvious shopping and restaurants? Hard to just ignore. If you don't want to make a special trip out to the airport, next time you're flying through Incheon International -on your way to Korea, on your way to a vacation, or whatever it may be - budget a little extra time just for walking around. 

2. Muuido, Wolmido, & the other surrounding islands

One exciting thing about Incheon is being right on the coast. Since my days are spent surrounded by high-rise apartment buildings, I often forget that I'm about fifteen minutes away from the ocean, albeit an area that's mostly industrial shipyards. However! There are islands! Tons of them, actually. And the best part: they have beaches. 

So far I've only visited Muuido, but so, so many more are on my to-do list for the summer. Muuido is great because it's easily accessible -- you catch a bus from Incheon International Airport, grab a quick ferry, and you're there. While it can be done as a day trip, you have the option of renting a pension room for super cheap rates, or you can rent a little hut on the beach (that sleeps about four people) for as little as ₩30,000 a night! 

Muuido is great for summertime beach fun, Wolmido has fresh seafood and a small amusement park, and that's just the beginning. Stay tuned for more posts on the islands around Korea -- it's my goal this summer to explore as many as I can. 

3. Chinatown & Jayu Park

I'm grouping these two together because they're literally next to each other, so visiting both in one go makes an excellent day trip. Incheon is home to the only "official" Chinatown in Korea! It's at the Incheon-end of the Seoul Metro Line 1, directly across from Incheon station. 

Chinatown is full of delicious restaurants (make sure you stop for some jajangmyeon -- a black bean noodle dish that the area is known for!), adorable tea and coffee shops, excellent souvenir shopping, and great photo ops! 

After wandering through Chinatown, head up the hill (er, mountain) to Jayu (Freedom) Park! The park gets its name from the post-Korean war era -- there's a statue of MacArthur in the park, commemorating his landing in Incheon and important role in the war's outcome. In addition to MacArthur's statue, the park has lots of other sculptures, is beautifully landscaped, and has some great views of Incheon and the port:

4. Bupyeong Ungerground Shopping Center

My dear friend Kara already wrote of the wonders to be found in Bupyeong's Underground Shopping Center, so let me just underscore how amazing this place is. 

Bupyeong has everything you've ever wanted and more. It's a confusing mess of aisles, with stall after stall packed maybe a little too full -- in short, complete sensory overload. And it's awesome. Ever look at Korean fashion longingly and wonder where you can get clothes like that? Bupyeong is your place. Clothes, bags, glasses, shoes, phone accessories, party supplies, stationery, Engrish shirts to send to folks back home... It's all here. With an extra helping of the Engrish.

After you conquer the seemingly endless maze of Engrish shirts and awesome fashion, venture above ground too: there's a neat area full of name brand shopping, great restaurants, and a lively bar scene. A little more wandering will also bring you to a traditional-style market selling everything from produce to fresh fish to blankets. 

5. Sorae Fish Market

Taking full advantage of being on the coast, the Sorae neighborhood of Incheon has a lively fishing industry, including its own market. The day I spent in Sorae last fall for their annual festival was probably one of the best days I've had in Korea. Even though Sorae is minutes away from my bustling, modern neighborhood, there's something about this place that feels like it hasn't changed in decades. 

Buildings and buildings full of fresh seafood -- cooked, dried, fried, and some still alive. You can stock up on groceries to take home or you can pick up what you want for dinner, head to a nearby restaurant, and they'll cook it for ya. For fans of fresh fish looking for a traditional fish market experience, get to Sorae as soon as you can. 

I have to say, I'm really happy that I ended up in Incheon -- it's a great city and I'm really looking forward to exploring it more! Even if you aren't placed to work at a school in Incheon, I highly recommend spending some time here. 

Have you even been to Incheon? Are there any spots in Incheon that you would recommend? Leave a comment below! 

EDIT - June 6, 2014 -- NEW entry with even more to do in Incheon is up! Check it out!