Seodaemun Prison

Always one for exploring museums and learning about history, I finally checked out a spot I'd really been interested in visiting: Seodaemun Prison History Hall. During my time in Korea, I've been very interested in any opportunity to learn more about the country's past, and friends have told me this museum was not to be missed. Now that spring has sprung, it seemed like the prime time to walk around the prison's grounds in Seoul and take in the history of the place. 

The first building you'll come to upon entering -- start here! Lots of basic information of the prison's history is in this building, which will help you understand everything else.

To give a brief history lesson to contextualize the photos I took, Seodaemun Prison was opened in 1908 under the name Gyeongseong Gamok. As you may know from your history lessons, Japan invaded Korea, and at this point in time, Korea was considered a protectorate of Japan. 1910 marked the official annexation of Korea by Japan, an occupation that lasted until the end of the World War II in 1945.   

Original layout and size of the prison.

Seodaemun, being operated by the Japanese, was a prison reserved primarily for Korean independence and freedom fighters. At the time the prison was built, it was the largest in Korea, with cells to house 500 people. However, over the course of Japan's occupation and the resistance movements by Korean activists, the number of people interned reached more than 3,000 around the time of the March 1st Independence Movement in 1919.   

One of the buildings, looking foreboding.

After Korea's liberation in 1945, the prison remained in use until 1987. Then, in 1998, Seodaemun Prison History Hall was opened to commemorate dark history of the prison and its prisoners. 7 of the 15 buildings have been restored and all contain information for visitors about their historical significance.   

It was fascinating, while also saddening, to learn about life in the prison. We were able to see not only an average cell but also look into the cells for solitary confinement. The basement of the main building was the area designated for interrogation and torture, so scenes depicting these have been recreated for visitors.   

Solitary confinement cells.

Mannequin in one of the cells, showing how inmates would tap on the cell walls to communicate with each other.

Photos of prisoners line the walls of a room in the main history building.

Box torture: prisoners were put into the box, which has spikes sticking into the inside, and then the guards would shake the box around.

A mannequin Japanese guard oversees the cell block.

As the prison's history is irrevocably tied to Japan's presence in Korea, much of the museum focused on the history of the two countries during the prison's operation. Exhibits detail the struggle Korea faced during the time of its occupation, detailing the brave acts of the men and women who dared to stand up for Korea's freedom and independence.

Overall, it was a very interesting, albeit somber, experience, and definitely one of the better museums I've seen while in Korea. The organization was tasteful and informative, and we left with a much greater understanding of Korea's history in the first half of the twentieth century. I highly recommend spending an afternoon exploring the prison and soaking up the history while you're in Korea!

Directions and information: 

• Dongnimmun Station, Seoul Metro Line 3, Exit 5. 
• Admission cost: 3,000 won. 
• Hours: March-October 9:30am-6pm, November-February 9:30am-5pm.
• Closed on Mondays, national holidays.
• Official website: Seodaemun Prison
• Trazy website with more information

My Favorite Korean Palace: Gyeongbokgung

The weather is finally getting warmer and in anticipation of the prime sightseeing and out-of-doors season, I've been revisiting pictures from my past springs and summers in Korea. I can't wait to get out and take full advantage of my upcoming weekends -- there are so many festivals coming up! One of my favorite spots that I'm looking forward to revisiting this springtime is the grandest of the five palaces in Seoul: Gyeongbokgung.

So here's a glimpse into this palace's grounds through photos I've taken over the past couple of years...

The Joseon Dynasty, which began in 1392 and lasted nearly five centuries, is responsible for the construction of the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul: Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, Changgeyonggung, Gyeonghuigung, and of course, Gyeongbokgung. It's on my Korea Bucket List to visit each of these palaces, but I've only seen two of the five so far because something keeps pulling me back to Gyeongbokgung whenever I get the chance. 

Gyeongbokgung was first built in 1395 and served as the main palace for the Joseon Dynasty. Its time as the king's primary residence was disrupted, however, by its destruction in the 1590s due to Japanese invasion and war. Beginning in 1868, the palace was restored and expanded, only to take serious hits in the first half of the 20th Century under Japan's occupation.

Since 1990, the Korean Government has been working on restoring the palace to its former grandeur, with it being approximately half completed at this point.

So why do I love this palace so much? Well, basically, because it's just gorgeous. The palace grounds are absolutely massive, so with each trip, I find an area I hadn't fully explored the time before. The whole place is just outrageously photogenic and wandering around aimlessly is relaxing and peaceful.

If you like museums, also be sure to check out the National Palace Museum of Korea, which is located right outside the palace walls, and the National Folk Museum of Korea, which is within the palace grounds. (Definitely something to keep in mind if you're visiting the palace during the summer heat!)

Something else that I love about the palace are the cultural programs and events that it hosts. A couple years ago, some friends and I went to Gyeongbokgung during the Chuseok holiday because we had read about the variety of performances and activities that had been designed for the holiday weekend. We saw traditional dancing, did some arts and crafts, and ate good food. If you're ever in need of somewhere to go for a holiday weekend in Korea, look into what the palaces are hosting!

Directions and information:

• Subway: Gyeongbokgung Station, Seoul Metro Line 3, Exit 5. 
• Admission cost: 3,000 won.
• Hours: Opens at 9am year-round; closes at 5pm November-February, 6pm March-May/September-October, and 6:30pm June-August. 
• Closed: Tuesdays.
• Gyeongbokgung Official website.
• For more information about the palace, here's an interactive map of the palace grounds from the Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea and the informational website from the Korea Tourism Organization.

View from the Top: Seoul's 63 Building

There are quite a few spots around Seoul that offer a breathtaking view of the sprawling city. As a bad knee prevents me from being an avid hiker, I've yet to get a look at the city from the top of one of its numerous mountain peaks. Instead, I opted to check out the famous 63 Building, which sits right on the Han River and gives a chance at a full 360 panorama of Seoul. (And it has an elevator that takes you to the top, therefore saving my knee the effort.) 

Let me just say: Seoul is one good lookin' city. 

If you've been anywhere near the Han River in Seoul, you've probably seen the 63 Building -- it's that really, really tall one that's all shiny and gold. It has 63 floors, as you might've guessed, and measures a whopping 264 meters. You can technically only go as high as the 60th floor, which was a slight bummer, but really, what's another three floors when you're already that high up?

Visiting the 63 Building was a pitstop on the way home from other errands in Seoul -- we really only wanted to check out the view. That being said, the building offers quite a lot of other activities, from restaurants to a "sea world" to a wax museum. Due to time constraints and a general unwillingness to spend money on the other attractions (which are semi-pricey), we went straight to the top of the building. 

Identical blocks of high-rise apartments.

When you go to the 63 Building, you'll have to buy tickets on the ground floor before you can even get on an elevator for the observation floor. (Don't worry about getting lost -- it's a bit of a maze, but there are tons of employees stationed all over to point you in the right direction.) The observation floor is also technically an art gallery, known as 63 SkyArt, which adds a little extra bang for your buck. We were slightly offput that the fee for the art gallery/observation deck was ₩11,000 (~$10 USD), but figured it could be worse. Getting up to, into, and down from Namsan Tower, for example, is more expensive (unless you hike). 

The buildings just never end.

While I wasn't able to get any pictures because it was moving so fast, the elevator that took us up to the 60th floor had glass walls! We were able to see the Han and the buildings of Seoul shrink right in front of us as our ears popped and we experienced mild vertigo. (Going down was even more disorienting, actually.) 

Speaking of disorienting, this is the "Thrill Deck" corner of the observation floor -- but honestly, not terribly thrilling as the glass panels were mirrored back at me instead of being see-through down to the ground. I look so thrilled, right?

The art gallery had some decent pieces on display, so I did take a little time to look at the art on the wall. Really, though, I was too preoccupied with getting some shots of Seoul to give the art the attention it deserved. 

We were lucky to visit on such a clear day. Definitely something to keep in mind in case you want to visit the 63 Building. Keep an eye on the pollution levels.

After wandering all the way around and staring out the windows for a while, we got bored and decided to leave. There is a cafe and small gift shop, but both were crowded with other tourists. As we left, we walked around the outside of the building so we could get some good shots of it against the clear blue sky.

There is it, ladies and gents. Tall, shiny, and gold(ish). 

An art installation of some metal trees outside the building, making a neat contrast of shapes and textures.

Directions:

• We got off the subway at Daebang Station, took exit 6, and hopped on the #62 city bus. (Our bus driver even made sure we got off at the right stop, even though it clearly announced the 63 Building stop over the speakers.) 
• The 63 Building is also within walking distance of several subway stations that are along the Han River, so as we were leaving, we chose to just walk back to Yeoinaru Station.
• Also, for more information and directions, Korea Tourism Organization's site for the 63 Building has comprehensive information about how to get there.

Overall, it was neat. Worth the ₩11,000? Meh. The view was definitely gorgeous, but I have to roll my eyes at all the gimmicks of the building. That, and I wish the ticket price for getting to the 60th floor was a little cheaper. 

However, I will say that I was definitely impressed with the panorama of Seoul, and as far as observation decks go, this one presents an awfully pretty view. If you don't mind the ticket price, I would recommend taking a trip up to the 60th floor. Just look at those pictures -- how would you not want to see that? 

Korea Bucket List: My 2014 Goals

While it may not seem like years have passed since I first arrived in Korea, I'm officially facing the beginning of the end. My departure is still months away, but definitely in sight. By the end of this year, I will be gone. As the calendar flipped over to 2014, I suddenly started remembering all the things I've yet to see in this beautiful country! Here's what I'm looking forward to crossing off my Korea Bucket List before I leave...

1. Summertime trip to Jeju

I recently took a trip to beautiful Jeju Island, but, unfortunately, it wasn't exactly prime beach weather. While still gorgeous (and with weather far preferable to the peninsula's), January does not equal swimming season.

Soon...

Instead, I looked longingly at the turquoise water and silently promised the island that I would be back.

Information: Jeju's official website / Korea Tourism Organization website

2. Boseong Green Tea Plantation

I can't wait to check this one off of my list -- the photos I've seen of the green tea fields make it almost look unreal.

I'm not the biggest green tea fan, but I also haven't decided that I hate it. I figure a trip to Korea's famous green tea fields will be the final test. 

Information: Boseong website / Korea Tourism Organization website

3. Hike Seoraksan

As soon as the weather warms up, I'm going to start building up my hiking stamina. Seoraksan looks absolutely gorgeous (check out the photos from that old Aclipse blog!), from the hiking trails to the national park itself. 

I'm hoping I can actually do this one in the fall because everyone tells me it's the most stunning when you can catch the leaves changing colors. 

Information: Korea National Park Service website / Korea Tourism Organization website 

4. Weekend stay on Nami Island

I went to Nami Island for a day last year and I loved it. However, since it was my first time there, I didn't come prepared to fully experience everything the island has to offer! Next time, I want to book a room in one of the pensions on the island, bring a swimsuit, and go crazy! There's ziplining! And tubing! 

Information: Namiseom website / Korea Tourism Organization website

5. Bicycle around Gyeongju

Gyeongju is often referred to as Korea's "outdoor museum" and I'm already planning a trip there for the spring. Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla Kingdom, so tons of historical sites and relics were left behind. Temples, tombs, parks, a grotto... several of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites. I'm really looking forward to bicycling my way from one site to the next and learning more about Korea's history. 

Information: Gyeongju website / Korea Tourism Organization website 

One key spot to visit in Gyeongju is definitely Bulguksa. This temple was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995, it houses seven of the National Treasures of South Korea, and it's currently a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. Sounds neat, right? 

Information: Bulguksa's website (in Korean) / Korea Tourism Organization website

6. Eat live octopus!

Not a whole octopus, because that just freaks me out, but more along the lines of just bits of wriggling tentacles. It looks borderline terrifying, but also fun? I already know that I won't try some of Korea's other delicacies (like dog or bbunddaegi), so I figure I can give this one a go.

I'm thinking a trip to the Noryangjin Fish Market is in order. Anyone want to join me?!

Information: Korea Tourism Organization (for Noryangjin) website 

7. Cherry blossom festival

Every spring, the cherry blossom trees create beautiful canopies of white and pink flowers. My first spring in Korea was so-so for cherry blossoms, and last year I wasn't in the country, so I am absolutely determined to catch the trees in full bloom this year. 

My research has told me that early April would be a good time to see the blossoms, and this year I'm hoping to travel to somewhere with an impressive display. (However, with the mild winter we just had, I'm worried they'll start blooming early and I'll miss it!!) 

I've got my eye on the Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival, which is one of the largest in Korea. 

Information: Korea Tourism Organization website from last year (2014 info isn't available yet, but this link is still helpful for estimating about when the trees usually bloom in each area.)

8. Suggestions?!

This might be a cop out for the last item on the list, but I figure I should open this up to suggestions!

What I've listed above is by no means my complete bucket list (that one is quite lengthy) -- for this entry I decided to just focus on some of the bigger to-do items.

So, fellow bloggers, expat readers -- what else should I try to do before I leave this wonderful country? Leave me a comment below with your recommendations!