Korea Bucket List: Seoraksan National Park

Sitting high on my Korea Bucket List for the past three years has been Seoraksan National Park. I don't have a single good reason for why it took me so long to make it out there, but I'm definitely kicking myself for putting if off for so long. A couple weekends ago, Corey and I took a trip with Adventure Korea out to this famous park to soak up the cooling fall weather and do some hiking. 

Seoraksan National Park is located in northeastern Korea, about three to four hours driving distance from Seoul. The park itself is massive -- 398.5 km² (over 98,000 acres!), with so many hikes and trekking courses to potentially follow. The weekend we spent in the park definitely wasn't enough, and I really wish I'd made more trips to the park during my time in Korea. (So let that be a lesson to you, readers! Don't follow my terrible example!) 

The day we arrived, we hiked the popular Ulsanbawi course, which is probably one of the tougher hikes I've done in Korea. While being far from being the tallest peak in the park (that would be Daecheongbang, standing at 1,708 meters), Ulsanbawi is known for its unrelenting stairs and the stunning view from the top. The jagged rocks along the ridge of nearby peaks has made the view from Ulsanbawi become one of the iconic photo spots of Seoraksan National Park. Looking forward to this, we steeled ourselves for the stairs. 

However, as we set off for Ulsanbawi, we looked doubtfully up at the clouds that obscured the mountain peaks. Not only was it threatening rain, but if we did make it to the top, it looked like we wouldn't be able to see a damn thing. The rain held off during the hike, and when we got to the top, this was our surreal view: 

So, no rocks spiking along the tops of mountains, and instead, blue-grey nothingness. While I would advise you to keep an eye on the weather, hiking into a cloud and being surrounded by sound-muffling fog was a new level of bizarre, but also something I'm happy to have gotten to see. 

The hike itself isn't very long -- we went all the way up, with numerous rest breaks along the way, took photos, enjoyed our accomplishment, and made it all the way back down in under four hours. The stairs are punishing, especially the steep stretches that are literally affixed to the rock face, but while blogs online will say this hike is a rough one, it isn't impossible, and I highly recommend doing it. 

Feeling rather jelly-legged after the Ulsanbawi hike, we opted for leisurely trekking on our second day, following the Yongso Falls course through Jujeon valley. This route took us along a small river that snaked through the valley, showing off the impressive mountains above us. The path to the waterfall was under construction, so we weren't able to see it, but we still had fun climbing on the rocks in the river and taking photos of the scenery. Note the dazzlingly blue sky that would've been awesome for the Ulsanbawi hike... -_-

Along this course, we also stopped at some of the natural springs to drink the Osaek mineral water. Osaek means five flavors, and drinking the mineral water is said to be good for digestion and upset stomachs. There are a couple spots at the start of the course where the mineral water can be scooped from holes inside of the rocky riverbank. The water had an interesting taste -- very metallic and bitter. The area surrounding the valley also has numerous spas where you can soak in the mineral water to relax aching muscles.

Seoraksan National Park was stunning, and it's definitely on my list of spots to someday revisit.

For more information about the park, visit its official website. If you're interested in doing a tour with Adventure Korea, check their schedule here.

Korea & Its Cafes: Animal Edition

Do you miss your pet(s) from home? Do you enjoy looking at sheep? Do you have calloused feet? I know these questions might seem a little odd, but read on.

Cafe culture in Korea is serious business -- I can't spit without hitting a cafe in my neighborhood. In addition to your run of the mill coffee shops, cafes with specific themes abound. In my time in Korea, I've visited a board game cafe and the Mustoy cafe, but I have to admit, I've always been the most excited about the availability of a completely different cafe theme: animals. And now that it's starting to get cold here in Korea, it's the perfect time to hang out indoors! 

Here are the four animal-themed cafes I've visited so far, listed in order of my least to most favorite.

Sheep Cafe

This cafe, which is actually called Thanks Nature Cafe, is located in Hongdae, Seoul. It's cute, with sheep-related paintings and decorations hanging inside the cafe. We tried coffee, some ades, and a dessert while we were there, and all were decent.

The draw of this cafe, as I'm sure you've guessed, is their sheep. Don't expect a flock -- to my knowledge they only have two. They don't seem to typically be wandering around freely, either. Instead, they're in a small pen on the patio outside the actual coffee shop. You can snap pictures and watch them, but that's about it. Overall: so-so. The novelty is fun for a few minutes, then it wears off.

Information: Check their Facebook page for more info. The cafe is located in the basement of its building, so when you go looking for it, keep an eye out for the sign in the photo above. 

Dr. Fish Cafe

Sometimes, your feet are just gnarly and you need a bunch of little fish to munch on the dead skin.

The sensation is a strange one -- it kind of tickles, but it also doesn't. I didn't notice a huge change in the softness of my feet after letting the fish have at it, but that was probably because I couldn't stand to keep my feet in the pool for very long at a time. I also opted for the much smaller fish, as the larger ones (as seen in the photo on the left) just freaked me out.

You do need to order a drink to do Dr. Fish, and then the cost for Dr. Fish is just a couple thousand won per 15 minutes. These cafes also seem to always offer a bread buffet (baguette slices, cake-like bread, butter, and jam), complete with toasters to warm up the slices. Overall: weird, but cool. Definitely one to check out, even if the feeling (or general concept) of the fish freaks you out.

Information: Of the two Dr. Fish cafes I've been to, the one in Gangnam is the nicest. To get there, walk straight from exit 10 of Gangnam station. You'll walk for about 5 minutes, then the cafe is on the second floor of a building on your left. 

Cat Cafe

I'm not lacking in cat snuggles personally, since my boyfriend adopted a cat from a shelter outside of Seoul, but a cafe full of cats still got my attention.

Before you can pet and cuddle all the cats in these cafes, you're required to purchase a drink, which essentially serves as your admission fee. Drinks are pricier here, usually closer to 8,000 won or so, but it's worth it. 

I was impressed with how clean this particular cat cafe was, so I feel like they take good care of the cats. You can buy a can of food or little treats for the cats, which will make them swarm you, which is basically heaven for cat lovers. Overall: awesome. Cats are so weird.

Information: Cat cafes seem to be everywhere, so instead of providing detailed directions, I will point you in the direction of these blogs. In popular areas of Seoul, such as Myeongdong or Hongdae, just keep an eye out for someone in a Garfield costume -- they work for a cat cafe and can easily point you in the right direction!

Dog Cafe

The best for last -- because I do believe that dog cafes are magical places. I'm a dog lover to a possibly neurotic degree, and when I moved to Korea, I had to leave my darling miniature schnauzer with my parents. Spending time at the dog cafe helps fill the canine-shaped hole in my heart.

While smaller dog cafes seem to be popping up more and more, the most well known dog cafe would be the Bau House in the Hongdae area of Seoul. This cafe operates by the same rules as cat cafes: buy a drink, play with animals. There's also a variety of treats to buy, which will make you quite popular with the dogs.

Some dogs only want to hang out with you for the treats you have, but others seem to just enjoy the attention. There are usually a few dogs happy to curl up next to you and have their head scratched. The only off-putting part of this cafe is that it is dirtier, as dogs are wont to be, but the staff is quick to swoop in and clean up. Overall: THE BEST. Because dogs. Obviously.

Information: Bau House is located near exit 3 of Hapjeong Station. Make a right as you leave the exit, then walk down the nearest alley to the left, keeping an eye out for the sign to your right. There are also other dog cafes in Seoul, but I haven't checked any of them out yet. For more of my ramblings about my love for dog cafes, check out this entry from 2012.

Have you visited any of the animal cafes in Korea? Do you know of any that I didn't mention? Leave a comment below! 

Seodaemun Prison

Always one for exploring museums and learning about history, I finally checked out a spot I'd really been interested in visiting: Seodaemun Prison History Hall. During my time in Korea, I've been very interested in any opportunity to learn more about the country's past, and friends have told me this museum was not to be missed. Now that spring has sprung, it seemed like the prime time to walk around the prison's grounds in Seoul and take in the history of the place. 

The first building you'll come to upon entering -- start here! Lots of basic information of the prison's history is in this building, which will help you understand everything else.

To give a brief history lesson to contextualize the photos I took, Seodaemun Prison was opened in 1908 under the name Gyeongseong Gamok. As you may know from your history lessons, Japan invaded Korea, and at this point in time, Korea was considered a protectorate of Japan. 1910 marked the official annexation of Korea by Japan, an occupation that lasted until the end of the World War II in 1945.   

Original layout and size of the prison.

Seodaemun, being operated by the Japanese, was a prison reserved primarily for Korean independence and freedom fighters. At the time the prison was built, it was the largest in Korea, with cells to house 500 people. However, over the course of Japan's occupation and the resistance movements by Korean activists, the number of people interned reached more than 3,000 around the time of the March 1st Independence Movement in 1919.   

One of the buildings, looking foreboding.

After Korea's liberation in 1945, the prison remained in use until 1987. Then, in 1998, Seodaemun Prison History Hall was opened to commemorate dark history of the prison and its prisoners. 7 of the 15 buildings have been restored and all contain information for visitors about their historical significance.   

It was fascinating, while also saddening, to learn about life in the prison. We were able to see not only an average cell but also look into the cells for solitary confinement. The basement of the main building was the area designated for interrogation and torture, so scenes depicting these have been recreated for visitors.   

Solitary confinement cells.

Mannequin in one of the cells, showing how inmates would tap on the cell walls to communicate with each other.

Photos of prisoners line the walls of a room in the main history building.

Box torture: prisoners were put into the box, which has spikes sticking into the inside, and then the guards would shake the box around.

A mannequin Japanese guard oversees the cell block.

As the prison's history is irrevocably tied to Japan's presence in Korea, much of the museum focused on the history of the two countries during the prison's operation. Exhibits detail the struggle Korea faced during the time of its occupation, detailing the brave acts of the men and women who dared to stand up for Korea's freedom and independence.

Overall, it was a very interesting, albeit somber, experience, and definitely one of the better museums I've seen while in Korea. The organization was tasteful and informative, and we left with a much greater understanding of Korea's history in the first half of the twentieth century. I highly recommend spending an afternoon exploring the prison and soaking up the history while you're in Korea!

Directions and information: 

• Dongnimmun Station, Seoul Metro Line 3, Exit 5. 
• Admission cost: 3,000 won. 
• Hours: March-October 9:30am-6pm, November-February 9:30am-5pm.
• Closed on Mondays, national holidays.
• Official website: Seodaemun Prison
• Trazy website with more information

Korea money questions? Here are some answers.

As a blogger, I've received a substantial number of emails about Korea over the past two years. The common theme among the questions I get asked can easily be guessed: money. Understandably so, of course, as money is an important part of taking a job in a foreign country. So, it is my hope that the information I have gathered from the experiences of a variety of expats in Korea (myself, my friends, and fellow bloggers) will help answer your burning money questions...

Before I get started, here's a general disclaimer: the following information does not, of course, account for every situation in Korea. This info should be used to give you a general idea of what to expect, but remember to calculate for some differences depending on area, salary, etc. Living in Gangnam is always going to cost more than living in Suwon, just as living in Pyeongtaek will be different from living in Incheon.

That being said, let's get down to the questions...

1. Did your school help you set up a bank account? 

This is a universal yes from everyone I've asked. You'll likely have to wait until your Alien Registration Card (ARC) has been processed by immigration, but there are ways around that in case immigration is moving at a slower-than-usual pace. My ARC, for example, took a little under two weeks, so when my first payday rolled around, my Assistant Branch Manager took me to the bank and got an account all set up for me!

Don't stress about this one -- someone will be there to help you out.

(Note: This is the case as a teacher with Chungdahm, so I can't speak to the level of assistance you'd receive at a different school. Though, honestly, I'm sure there will be people to help you because if not... that's just damn ridiculous.)

2. On average, how much do rent and utilities cost? 

Rent is the biggest variable since it depends on location and the type of apartment you're given. From the people I've asked -- located in Seoul, Incheon, Pyeongtaek, Daegu, and Busan -- you can expect your rent to be around or under $500. In smaller cities, you might be looking at something closer to $300, whereas in bigger cities, definitely closer to $500 or even higher. In Incheon, I pay 440,000 won per month for my single room, loft apartment. Having the loft definitely makes it more expensive than a tiny studio apartment, but all in all, it's still a good deal.

Utilities depends on the weather of your area (obviously) and also how well you manage it. In months with nice weather, your bills might be miniscule. In the middle of the summer heat, they might be over 200,000 won (roughly $200). 

3. How expensive is it to get around via subway or bus? 

Oh man, you're going to love this. It is so cheap. I can get from Incheon to anywhere in the greater Seoul area for under 2,000 won. The base fare is around a buck, and depending on how far you go, they might tack on a little bit more (but no more than another 1,000 won) when you get off.

Take advantage of the public transportation -- it's cheap and very convenient. 

4. How much do you spend on food in an average week? 

Yesterday, I stopped by the neighborhood supermarket, Lotte, for some basics. Ground pork, spinach, milk, cream cheese, sprouts, bread, and eggs. The total? Around 20,000 won. Some things are pricey here, like cheese and fruit, while others are more in line with our Western standards.

When it comes to food, it depends on how you approach your meals. It's easy to grab something quick from Paris Baguette or another cafe on your way into work. A salad or a sandwich will run around 5,000 won. Or, you can stop by a gimbap house and pick up a gimbap roll (around 3,000 won) or some bibimbap (around 5,000 won).

Before coming to Korea, I heard a lot of people tell me it's cheaper to eat out than in, and honestly, it's a 50-50 split. I manage to make cooking at home inexpensive because I've learned to cater my menus to what I can get a good deal on. Grabbing food in a restaurant is also very inexpensive though, especially if you stick to Korean food. There have been many a night when we've stuffed ourselves with Korean BBQ and the total is under 10,000 won a person!

My advice: brew coffee at home, pack lunches for work, and eat dinner at Korean restaurants. When I was on a money saving mission to afford a lengthy vacation back home, I was comfortably living on $100 a week. I've even made it by on $10 a day before! 

5. What can I expect for a cellphone plan? 

Cellphone plans here vary quite a bit. Some are as cheap as 30,000 won a month -- typically those are little flip or slider phones. Others, like mine, are 80,000 won a month. The way it will work if you want to get a smartphone, which is what I have, is you will be paying off the cost of the phone a little bit each month. That's why my plan is so expensive. I upgraded to an iPhone 5S recently, so I'm paying 80,000 won a month. That covers unlimited calls and texts, a generous data plan, and part of the cost of the iPhone. That's just one example, but since the 5S is a popular phone right now, I think it's a good indicator of what you can expect.

6. How much money are you able to send home each month? 

Saving money and sending it home is probably a priority for most of us. After all, Korea is one of the best paying countries for ESL teachers.

To answer this question, I'll just outline my own financial situation: In Korea, I have to pay rent, utility bills, my cellphone, and my health insurance. Back home, I have around $800+ in bills to pay -- student loans, car payments, credit card payments, etc. All that considered, I am able to send a minimum of $1000 home each month. That leaves me with more than enough money to cover expenses in Korea, eat out in restaurants with my friends most nights, and do more shopping than I need to at the mall down the street. I may not be saving a ton of money due to focusing on paying down debt and enjoying my life in Korea, but I'm still living very, very comfortably.

At a minimum, you should be able to send home $1000 each month, either to pay bills or to put straight into your savings. Not bad, amirite?

When it comes to sending money home, it's really simple and quick. The first time you do the transfer, you'll need the assistance of a teller (bring your passport AND Alien Registration Card!), but after that, you can do it from an ATM! 

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Hopefully those answers are helpful! The money situation in Korea, while stressful while you're in the process of moving out here, is really quite simple and convenient.

If you have any other questions or any experiences to add to this entry, leave a comment below! 

A Guide to Grocery Shopping in Korea

This blog entry was originally published on the Aclipse Blog, which is produced by current Chungdahm Learning teachers in Korea! The blog features entries on current events around Korea, advice for incoming teachers, and the best spots sightseeing, shopping, and eating. The original entry can be viewed here. 

As I was preparing to move to Korea, I kept reading online that it was actually cheaper to eat at restaurants than it was to eat at home. This can definitely be true, but I still wanted to cook at home. It took me a while to fully suss out all of my grocery options without getting discouraged -- veggies and (especially) fruits can be significantly pricier here, as are things like ground beef. But, if you know how and where to shop, it's easy to find good deals and not break the bank while trying to cook at home.

I'm going to break this down into different categories of grocery shopping to give a clear overview of what to expect and what is at your disposal.

1. Big chain supermarkets: Lotte, HomePlus, and E-Mart

You will likely have one of these huge stores near your apartment and/or school. Typically open until midnight, they're great for post-work grocery shopping and carry everything from food to clothes to literally anything else you might need.

I have all three of the big chains within walking distance of my apartment, and I would say that HomePlus is my favorite. They carry a better variety of products, including quite a lot of imported brands, and it just seems to be well-organized overall.

Shopping tip: Going late in the evening means you might be able to pick up produce and meat that's been marked down. Definitely a good way to save some money.

2. Small, neighborhood grocers

I highly recommend frequenting your local grocery stores. Prices can be quite a bit lower on things like fresh produce and you can often get good deals on meat. The butcher who works at the grocery store around the corner from my apartment always gives us way more meat than we actually need, which really helps drive home the bargain and keeps us going back for more. 

In my neighborhood, the large chain supermarkets are actually closed every other Sunday to give these smaller stores a business boost.

3. Traditional markets

Are you a fan of farmers markets? Then definitely keep an eye out for traditional markets. Some of these can be found in large open-air buildings, others are just set up along a particular street. You'll find everything you'd possibly want here, from fish to produce to spices. Don't be afraid to haggle, either -- you might be able to knock the price down a little. 

4. Convenience stores

You may laugh at the idea of shopping in these, but convenience stores are a viable option for those times when you just need to run out and grab milk or eggs. If you're lucky, you might even be near a little mart that carries fruits, veggies, and other simple kitchen ingredients. Convenience stores are ubiquitous in this country, so there will definitely be one near you. 

5. Costco

This is possibly the priciest option for grocery shopping on the list, simply because Costco carries a lot of imported goods and they sell in bulk. I usually go with a group of friends and we figure out how to split it all up to save money. I wrote a much more detailed post about Costco last year, which you can read here. 

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Any other tips for grocery shopping in Korea? Leave a comment below! 

Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park

Next to Dongdaemun Gate is an area of Seoul famous for its countless markets. From clothing to textiles to craft supplies -- it has literally everything you might ever want. Ever. Now, in the middle of these more traditional markets and hip shopping malls, a structure that looks like something out of a futuristic landscape has been added to this area's massive to-do list. This spaceship-like building is the new Dongdaemun Design Plaza, and it's really, really cool.

Spaceship? Or building?!

The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, or DDP, opened its doors on March 21st of this year, after over five years of planning and construction. According to the Seoul Design Foundation's website, the DDP is "the biggest three-dimensional atypical building in the world." 

Just looking at it from the outside is a trip -- all the curves and silvery panels are just aesthetically pleasing. I'd noticed it being built during previous trips into Dongdaemun, wondering what on earth the giant alien structure was going to be, so I was quite eager to finally take a look around.

So photogenic!

The idea behind the DDP is that it will be a center for everything creative in the design community. Not only is it set up to feature exhibits from artists all over the world in its museum and exhibition halls, but it's full of little spots for these artists to actually sell their products. We were a little overwhelmed by the structure and didn't know where to start exactly with exploring the inside. Luckily, a map is posted at each entrance, explaining how the building is organized. Technically, it's kind of three buildings, which have been connected into one giant, curvy structure. Here's the map we found that was immensely helpful:

Keep an eye out for these on the walls by all the doors!

As you can kinda tell from the above map, the DDP is divided into three sections that are actually three buildings, connected by all the curvy, fancy architecture. The sections are split into zones that cover six floors. To help explain some of what we saw, I'll use the following pictures and their captions: 

This is a photo from the Design Market, which features various retail shops, many of which are chains that you'll see elsewhere in Korea, and a decent selection of restaurants in a food court. This area in particular is open 24 hours a day! Which is pretty perfect if you happen to be in the area to see Dongdaemun's night markets.

A couple shops in the Design Lab section. This was my favorite -- so many cool little stores selling products featuring up and coming designers. I feel like this would be a really, really good gift shopping spot. A lot of stationery items, gorgeous art prints, and other decorative items. I had to resist the urge to buy almost everything I saw.

Aerial shot of a different part of the Design Lab. 

Even the coffee shop looks all space age! The information desks scattered throughout the building also have bizarre designs, but this little pod cafe was my favorite.

We found little cubby holes! Perfect for children, and us, because we couldn't resist. Nearly everyone was stopping to take photos sitting in these little holes.

Everyone hanging out along the weird cubby-bench-wall. 

No clue why there was a room full of balloons, but no one could go in, and the struggle was real for these little kids. (And me too.)

Outside (and under?) the building is a large park area, called Oullim Square. While we were walking around, we caught sight of a suspicious number of girls in poofy-skirted dresses. Wondering if we might catch a flashmob, we stuck around, only to see not only an impromptu dance performance but also a magic show! 

From its stunning architecture to everything it offers inside, you could easily spend hours upon hours wandering around. In fact, despite the hours we spent there, we didn't see everything! I'm looking forward to going back soon to explore it more and see the building at night. As impressive as it looks during the day, in the evenings the panels light up, making it look even more like a spaceship from another world. 

So, after a day of wandering around the markets, or if you're looking to kill time before going to the late night markets, definitely make a stop by the Dongdaemun Design Plaza. Great shopping, random performances, lots of restaurants, and countless photo ops! 

Directions & information: 

• Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station, Seoul Metro Lines 2, 4, and 5, Exit 1. As soon as you go out of exit 1, you'll be in Oullim Square.
• Hours: Art Hall - 9am-7pm, Museum - 10am-7pm, Design Lab - 10am-10pm, Oullim Square & Design Market - 24 hours! 

Monthly Photo Recap: April 2014

I know I seem to say this every month, but how is April already over?! The past few weeks have just flown by, which may partially be due to my excitement over my sister's visit. (She's here now!)

I've finally got an evening of downtime tonight since it's rainy outside, but we're going to watch a movie and bake banana bread tonight to gear up for the next two days of being busy. (Back-to-back holidays over here in Korea = four day weekend!) Here we go:

This cat is just so photogenic.

My selfie game is strong. (Mostly because I just centered this shot really well.) I'm pretty proud of this one -- all the lines and layers of reflections are just cool. 

I took an outrageous amount of photos of cherry blossoms this year. I might throw them all into a photo blog entry because why not.

Finally got to explore the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, which is pretty cool both from the outside and on the inside. I definitely see myself going back and probably spending a lot of money on all the cool things in the shops. Blog entry all about it is scheduled for this week. :)

The Dongdaemun Design Plaza is also full of great photo spots, such as these cubby holes that were definitely full of children. We did not even hesitate to climb in ourselves, obviously.

Hit up Gwangjang Market for dinner after the day in Dongdaemun, and I finally tried to "drug gimbap" -- blog entry coming later this week! 

More cherry blossoms. Can't stop, won't stop.

So we have a seriously legit Mexican restaurant in Songdo and it's already become a staple of my diet/life/existence. Living without Mexican food has been hard, y'all. 

Lanterns for Buddha's Birthday at Jogyesa! Waaaay more photos will be uploaded later this week once I sort through and edit them. It's my absolute favorite festival and I went nuts with taking pictures this year. 

More lanterns, being gorgeous.

Pre-lantern parade, which will also be covered in the future blog entry.

And last but not least, my Chungdahm branch is finally making the switch to the new "smart" curriculum. Should be interesting -- it's all tablets and smart TVs and stuff, which I think will actually be pretty cool. (Provided we don't have crazy technical issues, of course. Knock on wood...) Definitely curious to see how this'll go over with the kids as well as how I actually feel about it once we implement it in the classroom.